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In Bengal, ghee is found in four different variants — gawa ghee, buffalo ghee, desi ghee and herbal ghee. Ghee, or clarified butter made from cow’s milk, is more than just an ingredient; it’s a fragrant, magical touch toBengali cuisine. From frying luchis to finishing moong dal or drizzling over piping-hot khichuri, each region lends its own flavour to ghee. The ghee’s aroma, grain, and colour vary by region, depending on the local milk quality, feed, and making process.
What is ‘gawa ghee’?
Gawa ghee is clarified butter made from pure cow’s milk. The process begins with first culturing whole milk into curd then churning it into makhon (butter), and then slowly simmering it till it clarifies turning golden and aromatic. Unlike commercial ghee made from cream, gawa ghee is more labour-intensive with a richer flavour, a nuttier aroma, and a grainier texture. The caramelisation process makes the gawa ghee different from other desi ghee. The difference in aroma, flavour and texture depends on the processing and kind of milk used. The quality of the milk depends on the cow feed. The long process of caramelisation makes gawa ghee rich in flavour and sweet in aroma.
Difference between bilona ghee and regular ghee
The Bilona method is quite popular in India. First, milk is churned to turn it into butter. Then, the butter is then separated and washed in cold water. The butter is melted and simmered till it caramelises. Regular ghee, on the other hand, is made from collecting the cream (malai) of the milk. This malai is then boiled and simmered until golden brown.
Midnapore ghee
Midnapore ghee is known for its light to deep caramel hue, rich aroma, and slightly nutty flavour. Hand-churned traditionally from cow’s milk curd, it is slow-cooked. When simmered over a wood-fire oven, it gets a smoky flavour unique to the region. The Midnapore craftsmen used the pre-stratification method of ghee making that is now used commercially. The process separates melted butter into three distinct layers: a top layer of impurities, a middle layer of clear fat, and a bottom layer of buttermilk. This separation is done by heating the butter to a specific temperature and allowing it to rest. The ghee is made from the middle layer, which is rich in fat. Simple dishes like khichuri, posto, dal or seddho bhat can be elevated with a spoonful of Midnapore ghee.
Where to find: Amar Khamar
North 24 Parganas
North 24 Parganas ghee is richer and more milky, with a light golden hue and a stronger sweet aroma. This ghee is widely used in sweet-making, especially for classics like gurer sandesh and ghee rosogolla, giving them a signature depth. This ghee is made by collecting and storing the cream of the milk in the traditional household way. The butter is extracted and then heated to extract the ghee. It is slightly grainy in texture and can be consumed with just plain steamed rice. It is also used in tempering dal.
Where to find: Amar Khamar, Earth Story Farms
Kalimpong Ghee
Kalimpong ghee is known for its clean, light texture and delicate aroma. The ghee is made from high-altitude cow’s milk that’s naturally rich and less processed. Bilona or hand-churned method is used to make this ghee. It is produced in small batches by local dairies. It has a more subtle flavour than other ghee variants. It is best enjoyed with rice.
Where to find: Amar Khamar, locally in north Bengal
Birbhum Ghee
Dense and gooey in texture, sweet in flavour and nutty in aroma, the ghee from Birbhum is perfect for drizzling and cooking. The ghee is hand-churned from free-range cows’ milk. The colour of the ghee can be both light or dark caramelised. One can find the best Birbhum ghee in Bolpur.
Where to find: Banalaxmi, Amar Kuthi
