The hilsa is back on Kolkata's fish markets with the arrival of the monsoon. The supply is still picking up, but for many Bengalis, bringing home the season's first ilish is a ritual. With the bazaars flooding with cold-storage fish, choosing a good, fresh one is not easy. My Kolkata joined chef, food curator and Bangladeshi cuisine expert Nayana Afroz at Gariahat Market, where she shared four ways to identify a fresh hilsa.
Tip 1
Chef Nayana’s first hack is to check the firmness of the fish. “Press the back and shoulder gently. It should feel firm and not tender,” she said, explaining that a firm body is the first sign of freshness.
Tip 2
Next, check for the shape of the fish. According to the chef, “A good hilsa should be slightly rounded. If it is elongated, the taste won’t be good”. A fuller body often indicates a healthier fish.
Tip 3
The gills are another important factor to consider. “The gills have to be red. Brown or discoloured gills suggest that the fish is no longer fresh,” she said.
Tip 4
Finally, pay attention to the eyes. “The eyes should be clear and not milky. Bright, transparent eyes are a reliable indicator of a fresh catch,” chef Nayana advised.
Bonus:
While shopping, she also recommends picking fresh fish over frozen. “Freezing can affect the texture and flavour,” she explained.
The hilsa season has only just begun and buyers may have fewer options in the market for now. As supplies increase over the coming weeks, these simple tips by chef Nayana Afroz can help you pick a fish that is worthy of its premium price.
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