As rain changes the rhythm of Kolkata, pavements glisten, tea brews at roadside tea stalls, and the air carries the irresistible aroma of street food served hot.
While a range of telebhaja remains the city’s timeless monsoon favourite, there is a whole other spread of street-side food waiting to be relished in the rain. These comforting treats, served hot and eaten standing under an awning or beside a bustling thela, make every monsoon feel a little more bearable.
Kesar chai
There is something very comforting about wrapping your fingers around a steaming clay cup of chai while rain falls outside. And when there’s kesar topping the thick malai on the chai, the experience turns exclusive. At tea stalls like Sharma Tea and Arun Tea Stall, the fragrance of saffron mingles with strong tea and creamy milk. The flavour lingers on the palate even long after the last sip.
Dal pakora
Spicy alur chop and crispy begooni are our all-time favourites. But if you want to try something different, then try dal pakora. Crisp on the outside and soft within, dal pakodas come out fresh from the hot oil and are sprinkled with black salt. These are served in paper thongas with a dollop of mango-ginger chutney on a small newspaper chit. These thelas also sell potato fries, dipped in besan and shallow-fried in hot oil.
Bhutta
The crackle of corn or bhutta roasting over glowing charcoal is enough inducement to lure you. Smoky, juicy and lightly charred, the kernels should be small and taste mildly sweet. Corn cob is rubbed generously with lime and black salt, turning it into one of the season's satisfying street snacks.
Shingara
While samosa is what the rest of the country enjoys, the Bengali shingara is in a league of its own. Its flaky crust gives way to a filling of heavily spiced potato cubes (not mashed), the flavour of ginger and the occasional peanut makes it different.
Kathi rolls
Sometimes the rain makes you crave something heartier. And that’s when a freshly made kathi roll is best enjoyed. Wrapped in flaky paratha with smoky kebabs and onions, it is filling, flavourful and easy to enjoy on the go. If you want the authentic flavour, head to Nizam’s in New Market or Kusum Rolls in Park Street.
Ghugni
A bowl of steaming ghugni is pure comfort served on sal pata bowls. The yellow peas simmer into a silky gravy with a hint of tamarind water. Topped with chopped onions, green chillies, and slivers of coconut, add crunch and freshness. It is comforting and spicy.