Think Tarun Tahiliani and you think shine and shimmer, and his LFW showing this time was no different. Called Tarakini, the collection was inspired by “florals and cosmic stars” and sure did have the sparkle of stars! The luxury pret line was fashioned out of fine sheer fabrics, with iridescent embroidery using ombre and embellishments to display the beauty of constellations. Saris, sari-gowns kurtas, dresses, shirts, lehngas, jackets, kaftans, jumpsuits, in shades of ivory, beige, blush, aubergine, red and midnight blue, came with starry and floral embroidery that sparkled all over. Kriti Sanon looked gorgeous in a sheer lehnga ensemble with multi-coloured embroidery and a lot of glitter . In a black asymmetrical kurta over slim pants, a dapper Saif Ali Khan closed the Shantanu & Nikhil show at Lakme Fashion Week Summer/Resort 2018 in Mumbai’s Jio Garden. The Delhi duo’s spring/summer 2018 collection The Tribe — The India Story saw them pushing their design boundaries. Smart well-tailored clothing with layered pleating, bold colour-blocking , long cape structures, reinterpreted drapes, textures and jewelled surface ornamentation were the highlights for both menswear as well as womenswear. The micro pleated fabric was a constant for both men and women. Capes, jackets, bandhgalas , draped kurtas, sherwanis for men and draped dresses, waistcoats, gowns with capes and saris for women made up the look. Keeping with the current trend, there were some gender-neutral silhouettes too. The palette comprised black, white, golden and subdued earthy tones. Aditi Rao Hydari sported minimal make-up and a glittering ivory lehnga as she walked for Payal Singhal. Inspired by the designer’s fictitious muse Saira, the eponymous collection built on Islamic art influences from Morocco, Persia, Turkey, Afghanistan and Mughal India. Jaali work or filigree and antique embroidery decorated the garments in rich jewel tones. Shahid Kapoor and Mira Rajput sent out serious #CoupleGoals as the duo took the ramp for Anita Dongre dressed in all-white. The designer showed Songs of Summer, a collection replete with picks for weddings. The line looked luxurious yet gentle, in pastel hues and light fabrics. Kangana Ranaut looked every bit a ‘queen’ in an ivory gown from Shyamal & Bhumika’s “luxury pret bridal collection” called Wonderland. With street wear and rap culture being the buzzwords among the millennials, Ritu Kumar tapped the trend with Hip Hop Baroque, a hip young line in pop hues and vibrant prints. Shimmery jersey, lurex, georgette and handloom fabrics with splashes of sequins made up the line that comprised metallic tees, drop-waist dresses, maxis, skirts, capris, pantsuits and more. Pink actress Taapsee Pannu added zing to the show in a printed robe worn over black lace inner. Sania Mirza looked opulent in a sheer and nude lehnga-choli by Anushree Reddy, capping off the designer’s bridal and occasion- wear show. Kotwara played up their strong suit — chikankari — in a new avatar, with Sama Ali, daughter of designers Meera and Muzaffar Ali, reinventing the heritage stitch of Awadh in their collection Samanzar — A Garden of Flowers. Grand and regal clothing steeped in old-world charm, the collection added zardozi, aari and muqaish to the delicate chikankari . The occasion-wear line was shaped out of sheer chiffons and muslin, combined with rich velvets and brocades. Kurtas, shararas, angrakhas , lehnga cholis… the range was varied. Sushmita Sen added a generous dose of drama to the show as she walked to In aankhon ki masti (incidentally a song from Muzaffar Ali’s Umrao Jaan), looking like a bride in a pastel-hued lehnga choli.
“It’s very easy to look royal when dressed by the house of Kotwara. If you look at what I am wearing, the magic of something so elegant and royal is that it does not have to scream out its elegance, it is understated. When we were deciding the music for my walk, I said na sirf hamein ‘In ankhon ki masti’ par chalna chahiye, par uski original version pe chalna chahiye... no remixes... it’s magical,” said Sushmita post-show.
Text: Smita Roy Chowdhury Pictures: Sandip Das