Taking inspiration from the “colonial Orient”, Kiran Uttam Ghosh’s fall-winter ’13-14 line emanates military undertones and mirrors an appeal that is “half tomboy-half heroine”. The collection delves into old-world Hanoi and travels through early 20th century Saigon, Hong Kong, Beijing, Tokyo, Cambodia and Vietnam.

Showcasing distinctive elements of the colonial Orient as well as hybrids that emerged from the era, the collection translates the period’s martial rigidity and classic staples into modern pret with creations like the simple Cheongsam dress and the cross-body strap iPad cover.

There’s a strong femininity that blends with KUG’s staple masculine shapes. The military influences include metallic embellishments, epaulette detail and sharp shoulder styles with brass and buttonhole detailing, long-slit cuffs, high collars… that are delicate interpretations of the soldier’s uniform. Strategically placed silver pinstripe linings and bold colour stories intensify the collection’s androgynous charm. KUG’s signature layering can be seen in skinny inner layers.

The vintage appeal is evident in decayed old-gold detail and the use of bright embroidery against muted backgrounds that add to the drama of a line dominated by metallic and gold infusions. It continues in the high-ruched necks, Japanese inspirations like the bright Oriental flower motifs and ikebana installations in prints and embroidery.

The colour palette spans ivory, cream, taupe, wine, teal, anthracite grey, smoky blue, rich reds and gold. Heat-pleated fabrics meet raw silk, fine georgettes and crisp cottons.

Don’t miss: KUG has rendered yet another sexy avatar of her fashion uniform — the white shirt. This time, white collars and cuffs peep out from under the garments’ edges. “The white shirt is like my leitmotif… it also lends continuity through all my collections,” says Kiran.

Kiran Uttam Ghosh’s show at the Wills Lifestyle India Fashion Week is on March 15 at 5.45pm at Pragati Maidan