(Clockwise) Hare Dhaniye Ka Murgh, Akbari Gosht and Muslim Gharana Gosht Biryani; Mutton Shammi Kebab; Makhane Ki Kheer, Long Latika and Shabnam Ke Moti. Pictures by Rashbehari Das

Subtle, flavourful and light — these three words best describe the royal feast at Taj Bengal’s Sonargaon, on till September 16. Royal because the festival, called The Cuisine of Nadesar Palace, brings home the flavours of Benaras.

The menu is divided into Shudh Satvik Brahmin (pure vegetarian, sans garlic and onion) and Benarasi Muslim Gharana (meaty delicacies). “We wanted to serve select items that introduce a range of flavours defining Benarasi cuisine,” said executive chef Sujan Mukherjee, who hand-picked the dishes from the arduously researched menu at Taj’s boutique hotel Nadesar Palace in Varanasi.

In the Shudh Satvik section, start with the Benarasi chaats like Samose Ki Chaat and Dahi Bhalla. “The main course comprises dishes made with minimum spices and oil. They are delicious only because of their simplicity, like the Benarasi Handi Dal, Kaddu Chane Ki Sabzi, Benarasi Kadi Pakodi and Milijuli Tehari (Benarasi homestyle rice and vegetables),” added Sujan.

In the Muslim Gharana section, begin with the melt-in-the-mouth Mutton Shammi Kebab and the crispy-on-the-outside-buttery-on-the-inside Darbari Murg. Move on to Akbari Gosht, mutton prepared with yogurt, brown onions and cashew nuts, Hare Dhaniye Ka Murg, Mutton Korma and the Muslim Gharana Gosht Biryani which, unlike its Lucknowi counterpart, is not overwhelming in taste and fragrance. It is light and subtle, with the mutton providing its main flavour.

Another must-try on the menu — as much for its cute name as for its concept and taste — is the Dosti Roti. Two chapattis cooked with ghee slathered between and served piping hot!

Wrap up the Benarasi binge with Sheer Sevainya and Shabnam Ke Moti, or Makhane Ki Kheer that gives even the Satvik sweetdish a sinful touch.

A meal for two would cost around Rs 1,900 (plus taxes) for veg and Rs 2,800 (plus taxes) for non-veg.

Madhurima Chatterjee