The interiors of Khawab in Bagbazar. Pictures by Pabitra Das

In the rows of anonymous old Bengali houses in north Calcutta, near Girish Chandra Ghosh’s home, a not-so-anonymous landmark, a black-and-red signboard catches your eye. Charminar on one side, Victoria Memorial and Howrah Bridge on the other, in the middle it simply says Khawab.

As the signage suggests, Khawab is about the taste of Hyderabad in Calcutta. Inside the 20-seater Bagbazar restaurant (18 Girish Avenue), old Calcutta meets old Hyderabad decor-wise too. The wooden beams, the khadkhodi doors, the old-fashioned fans.... The alcoves might be typical of an old Bengali home but what lies therein is so typically Hyderabadi — vintage sepia snapshots. The gleaming marble tabletops hold simple white crockery along with an extensive menu (more details later).

What began in 2003 as a biryani-centric takeaway has now taken the shape of Khawab Bagbazar, a “proper sit-down”. Back then Pratima Basu would wonder if she could convert diehard Lucknowi biryani loyalists of Calcutta, but eight years and five outlets later, she couldn’t be happier.

Khawab was actually born quite by chance. “When both my kids went abroad to study, I wanted to do something. Food came to my mind since my husband Arnab (a partner at Monginis) is in the food business,” smiles Pratima.

What she doesn’t reveal is that her kitchen skills are tops too, her family and friends can blindly vouch for her ghar ka khana. “For me, the food quality and presentation are equally important. Another thing is that everything has to be authentic.” The hunt for the authentic took her to Hyderabad where she met an ustad who helped her establish the business and set up her central kitchen where Pratima ensures quality is maintained. It is fear of compromising this quality that makes her resist offers to franchise her brand.

While Khawab bestsellers are biryani and kebabs, the rest of the menu is no less substantial. The Gazak (starters) section serves traditional Hyderabadi specialities like Mutton Shikhampur Kebab and Chicken 65 (a fiery serve), and for the north Indian at heart they have a Tandoori Chicken. The Biryani section offers small, half, regular and special portions. Available in subji, murg and gosht, the biryani is served with a chatpata Mirchi ka Salan and Dahi ka Chutney. Try the Tawa Paratha (fabulously flaky and oil-free) from the Breads section and from the Curries, must-tries include the subtly flavoured Dum ki Machhli, spicy Baghare Baigan and a mildly-spiced Nalli Nihari. We suggest you order a chilled tall glass of Roohafza to wash it all down.

Lunch and dinner apart, from 3pm to 8pm, Khawab serves a variety of rolls and a mean Egg Devil.

A meal for two costs around Rs 500, including taxes.

The other Khawabs

Gosht Biryani in Handi. Pictures by Pabitra Das

Bengal Ambuja Shopping Complex

Howrah Food Plaza

166A Sarat Bose Road

114B Prince Anwar Shah Road