Sabyasachi with a silhouette from summer-resort 2011. Pictures by Pabitra Das

Sabyasachi Mukherjee

Sabyasachi Mukherjee’s Topsia workshop looks a little like a jungle these days. There are tigers, lizards, bees and butterflies. And then there are the birds. All on the clothes, of course.

But that’s not all. The collection has a swimsuit-like piece (inspired by Marilyn Monroe) that will be styled into tops to be worn with wrap-around pyjamas. There are also military influences, meshed mindfully to not look military. For instance, there’s a corset shirt with military collars. There’s also a dash of period-style drama from the Victorian era, a little lace. The fabrics are varied — from khadi to terry to giccha. The collection has a bit of the Seventies, a bit of the Eighties. Over to the man for more...

What is the collection called?

It’s called Sunderbans. And it’s like a farm!

So how many animals will we find in Sabyasachi’s farm?

If you look hard enough, many! There are animals but with references that are not in your face. It is complete abstraction. They are in my mind. People don’t have to get it. The sculpted ruffles to me are bees. These maxi dresses are shaped like a bird’s body. And these yellow and black stripes are my tiger. And, of course, there is a real cub print but that is inspired by my dog, Joey. So you can say it’s a side view of things!

Sabyasachi with a silhouette from summer-resort 2011. Pictures by Pabitra Das

What is the music, mood and make-up?

Music is Western classical. Make-up and hair I have no idea about. And it has many moods. I am now quite inspired by an artist called Rothko.... The collection is almost like Prada trying to dress up Sadhana. The mood of the collection is sexy, yet it is frumpy. In fact it is as sexy as Sabyasachi can get. Imagine if Woodstock got sexy! It’s Sunderbans seen through the eyes of J.K. Rowling’s niece!

Do you know that the fashion fraternity waits for your Western collections?

Yes I know that. It’s a funny thing, though. They intellectualise it, they lust over it but they never buy it!

Is it too expensive?

No, not at all. I think it’s too witty for them!

What are some of the silhouettes in this collection?

Jumpsuits, maxis, bikini maxis, square jackets, godet skirts.... There’s a shirt yanked into a gown. And then there’s a crew-neck tee stretched into another gown. There’s also a sack gown and a police coat.

And will we see another range of exciting accessories?

Yes, there are statement necklaces. And they are wooden! Have you met my tutti-frutti necklace?

Anamika Khanna

Standing in the ground level of her workshop, she cuts a stylish picture in a straight jersey skirt. The blouse is mull, a cowl drapes itself at the back; the front is the same grey as the skirt. Hair piled up and skin glowing, Anamika Khanna still insists she hasn’t slept for nights. Tell her she’s looking great, a dirty look comes your way as she tugs at the top of her lacy vest. “Oh please, luckily I found a matching ganjee today.”

She might be a pro at downplaying herself but when it comes to her catwalk collections, luck has very little to do with her success. It is talent all the way. Hers is the first show at the Mumbai LFW, an off-site one that too. She is approving a bridal lehnga, BBMing, scribbling notes and nearly hyperventilating — all at the same time. She manages to take 10 minutes out to chat in the middle of the madness.

What is the collection about?

Well, we started with androgyny but instead of approaching it the regular way, we have derived from the Indian man, from a maharaja to a man on the road to what an Indian man wears to sleep... it is a take on Indian androgyny. I would say it is an extremely powerful and strong collection but very sexy at the same time. Even if it is androgyny, it is still a woman’s style so she will never be like a man, she’s a woman and that will stand.

How many pieces have you got?

It’s a massive collection, about 50. It’s an off-site show, at Tote On The Turf, Mahalaxmi, so it’s basically indoor as well as outdoor.

Work in progress at Anamika’s factory. Pictures by Pabitra Das

How much is ready?

Can’t say. It all happens at the last minute. Always!

Which is your favourite piece?

I love them all. I would wear each of them. I usually don’t wear most outfits because I don’t like so much embellishment... but this one, I would wear.

And your favourite silhouette?

A white kurta-pyjama. What an Indian man wears to bed. I also like our extremely futuristic interpretation of an old Indian lehnga. It is very now.

What is the music, mood and make-up?

The make-up and hair is outstanding I think. It’s basically like a pretty European boy. Strong cheekbones, strong eyebrows.... The music is live drums. Wait and watch!

Finally, have you named your collection?

(With a strange, have-you-lost-it look) Never! I hate it! How can I kill a collection by naming it? It comes from so many diverse things.

Lakme fashion week summer-resort 2011 kicks off in Mumbai tonight. some highlights of the week to come...

Eina Ahluwalia

You can catch the LFW action live even if you’re not in Mumbai. LFW TV, hosted on www.lakmefashionweek.co.in, will give you a glimpse of every show and even what’s going on backstage or at the after-parties. Short stories on models, designers, newsmakers and the goings-on in the fashion week will be screened on www.lfwtv.in www.lfwtv.in.

Tokyo comes to LFW this year with Tokyoeye, a cross-cultural exchange initiative by Japan’s ministry of economy, trade and industry. Eight designers from Japan Fashion Week will exhibit at LFW; three from them will show on the ramp on March 11. The labels are Somarta by designer Tamae Hirokawa, Motonari Ono by designer Motonari Ono and Araisara by designer Sara Arai. If Araisara is known to be a blend of tradition and modernity, Hirokawa’s Somarta is already known for her famous ‘skin series’ from which Second Skin was endorsed by pop sensation Lady Gaga.

At the March 15 grand finale, Delhi designers Gauri & Nainika Karan will showcase Fantasy. We are expecting a dramatic dose of Hollywood glamour, charming frocks and red-carpet dresses.

Tamae Hirokawa	Gauri & Nainika Karan	Rimi Nayak
Abhishek Dutta	Shivaji Dutta	Rohan Arora

Calcutta chromosome

A dozen designers from Calcutta will take the catwalk in Mumbai from March 10 to 15 in all four categories — Established (ES), Emerging (EM), Accessory (A) and Gen Next (G).

Abhishek Byas (EM), Abhishek Dutta (ES), Amalraj Sen Gupta (ES)Anamika Khanna (ES), Debarun Mukherjee (ES), Eina Ahluwalia (A)Kallol Datta (ES), Prabhat Kumar (A), Rimi Nayak (ES) Rohan Arora (A), Sabyasachi Mukherjee (ES), Shivaji Dutta (G)