Every year, around the end of March or beginning of April, Verona, the romantic city in north Italy, hosts the Italian and international wine trade for five days at Vinitaly. A lot of business takes place and so do a lot of tastings. Every year boasts a record number of participants — wineries showcasing their wines to the trade and wine professionals and journalists wanting to know the latest wine trends coming out of Italy.

This year, there were more than 47,000 exhibitors from 110 countries and about 1,52,000 visitors and 2,000 journalists from around the world. For the first time ever, the fair was officially opened by the Italian president, Giorgio Napolitano.

With things slowing down in Europe over the last 18 months, there’s no doubt that Italian producers are looking to other markets to export their wines. In Napolitano’s speech, India registered as the first country being focused on by Italian producers.

Vinitaly is organised by Veronafiere, an event management and exhibition company, represented by Lotus Exhibitions and Marketing Services (LEMS) in India. LEMS, who do a spectacular job of taking India to Italy, is owned by Rajiv and Vandana Malhotra — wine lovers and my guides in Verona.

There is a plethora of Italian wines available in India. As much as 75 per cent of them are produced by large companies (think of the Santa Margherita group, imported by Amfora in Delhi) or by families who have been producing wine for generations (the Frescobaldis, the Antinoris, Angelo Gaja et al). But it’s less common to find wines from smaller or ‘boutique’ producers. I came across a few in Verona and am hoping they make it to India soon.

Valter Scarbolo, Friuli

The native grape in this region in Northern Italy is Friulano, a white grape. Scarbolo’s 2008 Friulano was ethereal. I could not believe how perfumed it was: white flowers and green almonds with citrus and exotic fruit like pineapple and mangoes. This is a perfect wine for Parma ham and other cured meats. Medium-bodied with a long, delicious finish!

Cantina Tramin, Alto Adige

The vineyards of this producer were established in 1898. The main grape variety is Gewürztraminer, native to the area in northern Italy at the German border. This white grape is known in Alsace, northern France, for producing medium to full-bodied, slightly ‘oily’ wines with a distinctive aroma — think of roses, lychees and spices. The 2008 Nussbaumer Gewürztraminer is spicy and reminded me of cloves, cinnamon and dried roses — a delightful accompaniment to meaty Indian dishes.

Umani Ronchi ‘Fonte Del Re’ Lacrima di Morro d’Alba 2008

This wine, from Marche in central Italy, was the biggest surprise of the show. The grape is the unique Lacrima, found in the area of Morro d’Alba (about 15km from Adriatic Sea). The nose of this wine was filled with fresh red berries and notes of violets. On the palate, it was fruity with soft tannins and just the right balance of acid. Refreshing with a long, juicy finish. Umani Ronchi’s wines are currently in India but this wine is not. Yet.