AGEING WITH GRACE: Julianne Moore, Sridevi and Rekha

Fear of ageing is a part of modern society. We all worry about old age and since the most visible signs appear on our faces, ageing of the skin has a psychological significance. The result is a booming anti-ageing movement. Whether it is fear of ageing or simply surplus disposable money or more scientific and credible cures now being available, people are making a beeline for anti-ageing treatments and solutions! Anti-ageing cosmetics industry is hence one of the fastest growing. This phenomenon is not unique to women but is affecting modern men, too. Here is more on ageing, its prevention and reversal — on the skin, at least.

PREVENTION

There are four factors that can delay the onset of ageing:

1. FACIAL

A facial involves a cream massage of the face. It has multiple beneficial effects, the first being nourishment of the skin with a good emollient, thus combating dryness. It also facilitates lymphatic drainage and helps detoxification. Also, tense facial muscles can inhibit blood flow and circulation and a facial massage can relieve tension, help blood circulation, and help skin rejuvenation.

though reversal of ageing features may not be noted with facials, it is an important tool for keeping facial skin healthy and rejuvenated and might delay the features of ageing.

Facial exercise by massage may be included along with a combination of anti-ageing treatments and skincare. Some aesthetic centres in the world have now started performing facials prior to medical treatments, like superficial chemical peels or microdermabrasions, for added benefits.

2. Sunscreen

UV rays are very damaging to the skin and are the main factor responsible for extrinsic ageing. Blocking UV rays by using sunscreen on a regular basis even when indoors definitely delays aging.

3. Exercise

Regular general exercise helps delay ageing because physical activity increases blood flow and continuously oxygenates body cells, preventing them from ageing. However, active facial exercises are a big no and may have negative effects. In fact, the American academy of dermatology says: “If you perform facial exercises to delay ageing it is time to stop. Each time we use a facial muscle, a groove forms, as skin ages and loses its elasticity, these grooves become permanently etched on the face as fine lines and wrinkles.”

Hence, though body exercises are good for anti-ageing, active facial exercises are not.

4. LIFESTYLE

Avoiding smoking and alcohol is important. Stress management, healthy lifestyle and balanced diet are essential, too. Diets rich in fibre and antioxidants like tomatoes, fish, berries, garlic, spirulina, and citrus fruits are good for the skin, as is consumption of an adequate amount of fluids.

REVERSAL

There are two categories of treatments to reverse the ageing process. One category is the quick-fix treatments that address the problem instantly, while the second category of treatments help the body repair tissue and produce collagen for anti-ageing effects.

1. Quick-fix treatments:

These are treatments that fix the ageing problem instantly without initiating tissue repair.

A. Botulinum toxin:

Botulinum toxin is a type of muscle relaxant that works best on active wrinkles that appear from active face movements. It is widely used for frown lines, forehead lines, crow’s feet (lines around the eyes) and neck lines. The action usually lasts for six-nine months and has to be repeated thereafter. It has been found to be safe in good hands.

B. Fillers:

Dermal fillers are injections placed beneath the skin to smoothen static wrinkles or fine lines. They work best to fill up static lines of the forehead to nasolabial fold to static lines around eyes. Fillers are now also being used to augment already existing facial structures (like lip or cheeks).

C. Surgical facelifts:

A surgical facelift gives the best anti-ageing results and is a procedure best suited for people who have severely sagging skin and want dramatic improvement in their appearance. Performed by plastic surgeons, it tightens the facial skin and underlying muscle and tissues to make the face tighter and smoother.

D. Thread facelifts:

Thread lifts are a good alternative to surgical facelifts, especially for those who fear going under the knife. It is recommended for severe sagging skin, especially around the neck, cheek and jaw.

2. Treatment through tissue repair

These treatments require multiple sessions at regular intervals to show good tissue repair effects and reverse age-associated changes. These help to generate new collagen and increase cell turnover.

A. Anti-ageing creams:

Cosmeceuticals, retinoids, vitamin C, alpha lipoic acid, AHAs and enzymes can help in tissue repair and subtly reverse the visible signs of ageing.

B. Chemical peels:

Many people are looking for a simple way to improve their skin texture and glow without surgery or facelift and chemical peels are an ideal treatment for such people. These use a solution, usually acid based, to remove the damaged layers of skin and also help rebuild new collagen.

C. Microdermabrasion (skin polishing):

Microdermabrasion is a skin-care technique that uses tiny rough aluminium oxide crystals or beads to buff away the surface layer of skin, thus increasing cell turnover and initiating repair.

D. Electrostimulation:

It uses harmless electrostimulation waves to heat up underlying collagen, which helps tighten and tone them up and also helps rebuild new collagen. It’s a good treatment for anyone who wants to firm up facial contours, improve lymphatic drainage and soften facial skin.

E. Lasers and intense pulsed light:

These should be used by those who have broken capillaries, age spots, and mild wrinkles.

Two types of lasers are used for anti-ageing — invasive and non-invasive. Non-invasive lasers help generate new collagen. They also help repair broken capillaries and pigmented age spots. Invasive or fractional lasers create tiny microscopic holes in the skin and pass energy beneath to initiate repair.

f. Thermage:

Thermage is a non-invasive skin tightening and contouring device that is used for sagging skin. It can also treat acne and other scars though it is an expensive treatment.

With current anti-ageing treatments, one can reverse age-related changes and make a person look younger, but a balance must be maintained between sanity and vanity. One must also remember that ageing gracefully is the best virtue, isn’t it?

Dr Sachin Varma is a consultant dermatologist at Apollo Gleneagles Hospital, Calcutta