The kingdom of Bhutan is a landlocked paradise, protected by the mighty Himalaya. It is a special gem. Flying alongside the majestic Mount Everest and Kanchenjunga — an indescribable experience — and then banking to the right into the valley of Paro, where the landing strip is the only runway in the country, I was struck by the sheer beauty and pristine environment of Bhutan. The preamble of the country’s young constitution commits itself with emphatic clarity to the social, political and cultural ethos that rule this pure and unmatched country. To quote: “We the people of Bhutan: blessed by the triple gem, the protection of our guardian deities, the wisdom of our leaders, the everlasting fortunes of the Pelden Drukpa and the guidance of his Majesty the Druk Gyalpo Jigme Khesar Namgyel Wangchuck: Solemnly pledge ourselves to strengthen the sovereignty of Bhutan, to secure the blessings of liberty, to ensure justice and tranquillity and to enhance the unity, happiness and well-being of the people for all time…”

Unencumbered by colonization and the devastating after-effects of foreign domination that brings with it spiritual and cultural upheavals, this young democracy escaped the turmoil that complicated socio-cultural realities elsewhere in the sub-continent. A traditional monarchy, Bhutan became a democratic State recently and has spelt out its mandate clearly in its constitution. Traditional culture, skills and the natural environment have an exalted position in the larger scheme of policy and governance. Apart from pledging to protect and conserve, the constitution declares: “the State shall recognise culture as an evolving dynamic force and shall endeavour to strengthen and facilitate the continued evolution of traditional values and institutions that are sustainable as a progressive society… Every Bhutanese is a trustee of the Kingdom’s natural resources for the benefit of present and future generations… a minimum of sixty per cent of Bhutan’s total land shall be maintained under forest cover for all time….”

Reverse swing

In a world where leaders are grappling with the problems of a degraded planet, where identities, cultures and pluralism are under attack, Bhutan could play an important role in leading the march for sustainable living. Bhutan is a proud nation, it respects its inheritance. Wherever you drive, over hills or dales, into valleys, the style of building remains the same. Its man-made habitats are beautifully constructed. Dzongs dominate the landscape with their imposing presence, their white walls rising high, embellished with painted lintels and small window frames. Private homes and public offices follow the same style.

Wide-eyed groups of tourists, loud and cheery, have not overwhelmed these wondrous valleys, making irrational demands for things that do not belong to the inherent ethos of this mountain kingdom. Pride in their national dress, in what they eat, is evident here. Travellers are welcome to partake of the culture, faith and environment. Rules are enforced and damage is minimal. In a capital of 100,000 inhabitants, it was remarkable to find 250 students training in sculpture, wood work, painting, weaving and embroidery. This is a high percentage compared to India, a country with a lot of human resource, where pride stands diluted, and traditional skills are ignored.

India, as the ‘big sister’ of the Saarc nations, has a lot to learn from this small kingdom. We have failed to give dignity to our skill sector, allowed the worst kind of buildings to take over our habitats, with public works departments across the country drowning every semblance of our traditional aesthetics in a quagmire of concrete blocks that have pockmarked the landscape. We have mutilated our natural treasures, poisoned our rivers, methodically killed our inheritance. We must reverse the trend.