The lights are set. The camera is at the ready. Just before the clicking begins, he pulls out a black-and-white piece of gingham fabric. Roll, twist, roll, twist. With a few deft moves, the scarf is placed casually around the neck. The shoot begins. Atop a 10-ft-high ladder or lying by the edge of a ledge, he is constantly making adjustments — folding his arms, straightening his frame, putting on his sunglasses. Aki Narula — the stylist, not the designer — is at work. “Styling is what I loved doing, that’s what I will always love doing.” A flash of his signature lopsided smile appears briefly, only to be wiped out in moments. In pictures, smiling is not what Aki does. He prefers the angry-young-man look.

We wonder why, since on most days of the week, Aki is not really angry. But perhaps he has his moments. And if you have to make Shah Rukh look like Suri and rise up to the challenge of presenting the “hottest ever” avatar of Kareena Kapoor in Kambakht Ishq, a few high-stress moments are forgiven.

After long stretches of stress and work, last week it was finally homecoming time for the Calcutta boy. Must-visits included Saturday Club, CC&FC, Tangerine and The Park which is “second home”. And that’s where t2 caught up with him by the Aqua pool for a long and lazy chat. Some excerpts…

What memories do you have of La Martiniere?

Well lots… I was in Martin house. I am a La Martiniere boy, right from Lower Nursery till Class XII. I was always an above-average student, never really spectacular. Barring the swimming team, I was never a sportsman but more into the Interact Club. Socials, hanging with the girls and partying were more my things! I remember meeting the other boys from St Xavier’s and girls from Loreto House at the many Interact events. Art was my sixth subject and watercolour was my forte. Suddenly, after ICSE, I started to do really well in studies — I guess college and career issues start weighing on you. Contradictorily, I also suddenly became very naughty after ICSE! Till then, I was a well-behaved boy!

Then what happened?

I don’t know, really. By college I was full badmaash! I remember waking up at 5.30, brushing my teeth and running to St Xavier’s where I was doing my degree in commerce. We used to bunk quite a bit. We have had lots of chai in Russell Street, breakfast at Flurys and Chinese breakfast — momo and soup — opposite Poddar Court. We had a great gang in college. Kersi who’s in Dallas, Conrad who’s also in the U.S., Arunava who I’m in touch with off and on in Mumbai and Dadu (Arvind Burman) who’s here.

And now your father’s your closest friend…

Yes, completely. During my childhood, my younger brother was his favourite. He was the opposite of me — totally into cricket, hockey and vice-captain of school. I was more docile and arty, more excited about helping mom choose her sari, setting the table and doing the flowers. My mom passed away in 1990 and that brought me really closer to my father. My brother was away in college and suddenly there was a vacuum in our lives that brought us closer.

Location courtesy: Roxy Picture by Pabitra Das

How was it working in Calcutta back then?

After college I got a job in Pressman Advertising. Then I worked in Lintas for a year and then I went to study persuasion and communication in Arizona State University. I got back and began working at HTA but my dad wasn’t keen on the advertising sector. He didn’t understand why I went to work at 9am and didn’t come home till midnight! I then started pursing cost accountancy and chartered accountancy.

But by then I also realised that I loved designing. I was always ripping off collars or buttons of shirts that I had, to create my own style. Soon after I applied to Damania Awards (organised by the now defunct Damania Airways) where Anamika Khanna and I were declared the regional round winners. I still remember my first line of clothes — it was a line of black and white kurtas! I launched my label in 1994 and I started doing very well with clients like the Poddars and Goenkas.

Work apart, I also burnt every nightclub in town between 1995 and 1997. A typical Friday or Saturday night would begin by tanking up in CC&FC where Salimbhai would make the best cocktails. We used to call them Salim Specials. Then we would head to Someplace Else which was open till 4am back then. We would party our pants off!

Then why did you move out of the city?

I was big but I wanted to grow. I didn’t want to be a big fish in Calcutta. I wanted to be part of the action and fashion industry so I moved to Delhi on August 15, 1997 instead of staying a star in Calcutta. Choosing Delhi was more a matter of convenience. My grandparents lived in Delhi so I had family base. I was anyway travelling there to source fabrics and buttons etc. So it was a comfort zone. After five years in Delhi I finally moved to Mumbai.

People hardly ever refer to you as a Calcuttan anymore. Do you still consider yourself a Calcuttan?

I live in Mumbai but I am proud to be a Calcuttan. I have a lot of Calcutta in me. My growing up, my value system is all Calcutta. I have fabulous memories of this city with family and friends. Delhi was a career move. Calcutta will always be remembered fondly.

Did you secretly harbour any filmi dreams?

I used to be a huge film buff. I have some memories that are burnt in my head. I remember coming back from Delhi in the Rajdhani after spending summer vacations with my mother. My father used to always gift me a new LP or EP of a Hindi film. Then our welcome present would be tickets to the latest Bollywood film. I remember all the old Hindi songs that played on their bedside radio. I vividly recall seeing Bobby in Menoka when I was three years old. Dress Circle was sold out so we saw the film from the front stall. I still remember I came out in love with Rishi Kapoor, and of course, Dimple. I narrated this incident to Neetu Aunty during Bachna Ae Haseeno and she was shocked!

What do you think makes you click in Bollywood?

I think it’s my power to understand a script. It is my sense of colour and the vibrancy I bring to the screen. It is my capacity to understand the character and not let costume take centre-stage. It is also my patience and argumentative skills when I convince an actor! I think Indian cinema has never looked hotter. Bunty Aur Babli and Rab Ne Bana Di Jodi have changed the face of Bollywood. I have zoomed up the sex quotient for an actor or actress!

Does Bollywood have any camps when it comes to stylists?

Not really. I have worked with Yash Raj, Dharma Productions, Sippys and now Nadiadwala. I think they have been very gutsy to take me on their best projects in the past two or three years. I think they also needed a change and they must have seen my potential.

Can you imagine yourself as a purely mainstream designer again?

No. Films will always be a part of my life. I love the process. It is a great working cycle — the creative brainstorming, the shoot and the release. The high of seeing your name in the opening credits. It’s a great feeling. A film during the shoot turns into my lover!

When did you stop feeling like an outsider in Bollywood?

It happened after the release of my debut film Bunty Aur Babli. I knew I had found my calling and comfort, and also acceptance.

Who’s your competition in Bollywood?

Arjun Bhasin. His looks are very real and he stays true to the character. I loved Namesake — his styling was superb. Other than him, I have no competition.

What or who do you think Vidya Balan needs?

(Laughs) She has a stunning face. She’s a great actress. What else can she need?

Maybe some style?

Why are you asking me this? Not after what she did to me! She bitched me out after we parted ways in Kismat Konnection. Then she discussed her problem with Manish Malhotra on national television! Two of India’s best stylists are never going to work with her. I honestly don’t know what or who can help her!

FIRST LOOK: Kareena Kapoor in Kambakht Ishq

You’re working a lot with Kareena Kapoor…

Yes. She is the most polite actress. She is super professional and a complete clotheshorse. She has the attitude and the grace, whether it is a ghagra or the shortest of shorts. She is my muse.

She is known as Manish Malhotra’s muse…

(Smiles) She is my muse also.

Which other actor/actress is your friend?

Kareena is my closest friend. Apart from that I would say Bipasha Basu is my friend. Abhishek Bachchan for sure. He is like my brother.

Your latest release Rab Ne Bana Di Jodi had Shah Rukh Khan looking like never before…

It is definitely my most evolved work till date. To destroy Shah Rukh’s image and create Suri was a challenge. We made him wear two vests to get a hunch and shirts that were three sizes too big. His trousers were high waisted and pleated. He wore one belt throughout that was in tatters by the end of the shoot! And all of Raj’s 30 pairs of jeans and corny tees were from Amritsar and Delhi’s Sarojini Nagar. Then we added those rivets and blade that are now such a rage. Even Taani (Anushka Sharma) wore simple chikankari suits at home and phulkari when she went out.

What is the look of Kambakht Ishq?

I can’t talk about it yet. All I can tell you is that she (Kareena) hasn’t looked hotter! She will be India’s answer to Sarah Jessica Parker.

What else are you working on?

There’s Rensil D’Silva’s untitled film with Saif, Kareena and Viveik Oberoi. I’m reading some scripts right now but nothing’s exciting me enough to turn it into my lover!

Anyone you are dying to work with?

Sonam Kapoor. She is the best-dressed actress and carries anything from a ganjee to a Lanvin dress beautifully. I want to do a mad Sonam look with her. I also want to style Prateik Babbar. Together they will be a dream!