The Royal Palace complex in Phnom Penh

Angkor is undoubtedly the jewel in Cambodia’s crown but there’s much more to this country than the world-famous ruins that surround the tourist city of Siem Reap. To understand this enigmatic country, its history and its people; it’s imperative to step outside Angkor and peep into the back alleys of its cities, at the paddy fields in the countryside — something I decided to do on my recent trip.

First stop — the ancient temple of Prasat Preah Vihear, a recent addition to UNESCO’s World Heritage list. Since it’s near the Thai border, in a remote province, you need to take the local bus to the town of Anlong Veng, a former Khmer Rouge stronghold, three hours north of Siem Reap. The town and the temple itself were the Khmer Rouge’s last bastions from where they continued guerilla operations against the Cambodian people well into the early nineties.

I set off early for the five-hour drive to Preah Vihear. The 120-km journey to the temple is right out of hell, the only way to get there is by a motorbike or a 4x4. I’d definitely recommend the ‘moto experience’. But hire an experienced local driver.

My driver was friendly, enthusiastic and spoke a smattering of English, giving me the chance to learn about the Cambodian way of life. We stopped several times for rest or food and he was happy to translate my numerous queries to the friendly locals.

Unfortunately we were travelling during the monsoons. We went through stretches where the mud was almost knee-deep and we saw quite a few cars stuck in the quagmire. The village kids repair these muddy stretches just by laying branches and leaves on the road and are usually handsomely tipped by grateful passing drivers. Legs caked with mud, faces covered with red dust and soaking wet, we finally reached the temple.

A reconstructed door of the ancient temple of Prasat Preah Vihear

Prasat Preah Vihear was built in the 11th century, about 200 years before Angkor and though not as majestic, it easily has the better view. Perched on the Dangrek Mountains, it overlooks the surrounding valley. Looking down, I could understand the border dispute between Cambodia and Thailand that surrounds this site, given its strategic location (hence the presence of more soldiers than tourists).

The temple complex, added to by successive kings, is large, but in relative disarray. Still it has some wonderfully preserved lintels and the UNESCO recognition will hopefully result in better maintenance. The spectacular view, the thrill of visiting a relatively unexplored place, the adventurous dirt roads and the plentiful land mine warnings along the way, all make for a heady trip.

I then headed straight to Phnom Penh, Cambodia’s charming capital, a far better indicator of local city life than Siem Reap, where everything seems geared towards foreign tourists. Phnom Penh’s Tuol Sleng Museum was the main Khmer Rouge prison and detention centre during its five year genocidal rule. Formerly a school, Tuol Sleng was where thousands of political prisoners were detained and tortured and then later sent to Choeung Ek for execution.

You can still see the barbed wire surrounding the school; visit the dark and dingy cells and pay your respects to the victims, some of whose photographs, along with their stories, are on the walls.

The Killing Fields of Choeung Ek, on the city’s outskirts was my next stop, where the mass graves bear witness to the horrors humans are capable of perpetrating. An imposing white stupa houses the skulls of many victims.

The next morning I visited the palace. It’s still used by the present king and large sections are closed, but The Throne Hall and ‘The Silver Pagoda’, open to the public, are stunning.

The Prasat Preah Vihear is now a UNESCO World Heritage site

Apart from the famous emerald Buddha, the pagoda contains a giant gold Buddha statue inlaid with diamonds, and there are also several hundred other statues made of gold and silver and set with precious stones. And when you get tired of looking up at the statues, just look down at your feet, since all the floor tiles are made entirely of silver (though most of it is carpeted now). Then, I stopped at the National Museum next door. It contains many statues and carvings from the Angkor temples. I was surprised to see the statues of Hindu deities with facial features so unfamiliar to our own.

The dinner that evening was delicious. There are plenty of local Khmer (Cambodian) restaurants flanking the embankment at Sisowath Quay, opposite the palace. Lok-lak (fried meat), not counting the beef stew that I had tried for breakfast, was my favourite. And as I sipped my bottle of Angkor beer, on what was to be my last night in Cambodia, I tried to form an accurate mental picture of this country — one that spoke of its glorious history, its bloody past, an uncertain present and an optimistic future.

Ready reckoner

Getting there: There are no direct flights from India to Cambodia, but connections are available from Bangkok, Singapore and Kuala Lumpur.

Staying there: Phnom Penh has hotels in all brackets.

Currency: 1KHR (Riel)= .011 INR.