An exotic Phra Lak Phra Lam dance recital; (below) a dazzling mosaic adorning the Wat Xieng Thong monastery

It is difficult to believe that the most enchanting country in south east Asia is the one least visited. In fact, if it hadn’t been for a couple of friends who visited Laos a few months ago, I too would have given this captivating country a miss.

And would that have been a pity! For, Laos may not have Thailand’s beaches, Cambodia’s temples or Malaysia’s jungles, but it has something that is conspicuous by its absence in all these countries — that is, oodles of laid-back charm. Add to that mix unspoilt natural beauty and friendly people and you have a perfect holiday destination.

However (and quite unfortunately) getting to Laos is not easy. There are no direct flights from India, and Bangkok is the most popular transit point. Since I was already backpacking through northern Thailand, I hopped on to a bus and made the 3-hour journey from Chiang Mai to Chiang Khong on the Laos border. From here it was a 10-minute boat-ride across the mighty Mekong to Huay Xai in Laos where I got a visa on arrival.

Huay Xai is a non- descript town that serves as the starting point for two great water journeys on the Mekong into Laos. The first is upstream and in the mountains to Luang Namtha and the other is a two-day downstream journey to the majestic city of Luang Prabang, which is a UNESCO World Heritage city. I opted for the downstream journey and got on board the next morning. The boat was packed with tourists from Europe, Australia and Japan.

As the boat idly floated down the great river we passed lush fields, forests and sun-kissed mountain tops speckled sparingly with tiny bamboo houses. The boat was crowded, the wooden benches were uncomfortable and the scores of photographs clicking away jostled us, but in the picturesque surroundings we hardly noticed the discomfort.

We made an overnight halt at a tiny village that offered the most basic of accommodation and at day-break set off for Luang Prabang.

Luang Prabang is an enchanting mix of French villas and Buddhist wats (monasteries). Steeped in history, the Royal Palace (now a museum) has interesting murals in the reception room, while the main hall is adorned with beautiful mosaics and a dazzling collection of royal artifacts and Buddha statues. One of the rooms also contains the Pha Bang (the revered golden standing Buddha) from which the city gets its name.

(From top) Boats waiting to set sail on the Mekong; Patuxai, Vientiane’s monument of glory

In the evening I walked up some 200 steps to the hill of Phu Si to catch a perfect sunset. That evening I was lucky enough to catch a masked dance recital of Phra Lak Phra Lam, the Lao interpretation of the Ramayana (here Rama is considered an incarnation of Buddha) at the Royal Palace.

I spent the next couple of days visiting the numerous monasteries in the city, my favourite being Wat Xieng Thong with its beautiful mosaics. This gave me a chance to interact with some of the young monks. I found that almost all boys in Laos (especially those from the countryside and from more modest backgrounds) live as monks during adolescence as this gives them the chance to go to school.

I also visited some beautiful waterfalls in the surrounding countryside like the Tat Kuang Si, which is a series of waterfalls that tumble over limestone rocks. Another interesting sight is the daily candle-lit night bazaar with its collection of local handicrafts and strange (bordering on bizarre) items such as alcohol with preserved snakes and scorpions inside (believed to provide the drinker with the reptile’s strength and virility).

Vientiane, the capital, was my next destination. It’s a large town with a little less than a quarter of a million inhabitants. Set on the banks of the Mekong, just across the border from Thailand, this is a city with timeless appeal. From watching saffron-robed monks wandering the streets to enjoying the numerous cafés and bistros, there’s much to see and do.

I started my tour at the Patuxai, Vientiane’s Arc de Triomphe. Never fully completed, it straddles the city centre and offers a wonderful view, overlooking the main boulevard that leads to the Presidential Palace.

But a more refreshing sight perhaps is the magnificent Pha That Luang, the golden stupa which is the national symbol of Laos. The temples of Wat Si Saket and Haw Pha Kaew, which are a short walk away, are both equally beautiful, with Wat Si Saket being home to over 10,000 Buddha statues of different sizes. A day trip to Xieng Khuan or Buddha Park, with its many strange sculptures inspired from both Buddhism and Hinduism, is also highly recommended.

The cuisine in Laos may not be as famous as that of its neighbours, but you can still get pretty tasty papaya salad (extremely hot), grilled chicken or fish and some great noodle soup. Also worth trying are laap (a spicy salad made with minced meat), orlam (stew) and khao nio (sticky rice). And if you get bored of south east Asian cuisine, then there are some great French restaurants around as well. Indian restaurants too are easily found (even in the small village on the Mekong where we spent one night).

But what finally wins a traveller over are the people of Laos. The women are the most beautiful in the region, and everyone is unbelievably warm and friendly. During my stay, I was invited by complete strangers to partake in local meals, share a bottle of Beer Lao and even asked to join in for a weekend picnic.

So, I guess it really doesn’t matter for how long you plan your holiday here — one chance meeting with its people and you will find yourself overstaying, just like me.

Ready reckoner

Getting there: There are no direct flights from India. The best way to get to Luang Prabang is from Bangkok by air or from Chiang Mai by land.

Staying there: You can get a twin bedroom with attached bath and AC for around $15.

Exchange Rate: 1 LAK (Laos Kip) = 0.58 INR approximately.

Web Watch: www.tourismlaos.gov.la