The ‘it’ colour

Fashion forecasts say black and metallics are the hottest hues this winter. But if you are fed up of wearing your shimmering silvers or gaudy golds and are trying desperately to ignore ‘black is the new black’ headlines, you are not without alternatives. Designer Sabyasachi Mukherjee says the strongest colour palette this season is plum, berry, indigo, navy, pearl and ochre. And last season’s purple continues to rule the roost. Feeling inspired?

The ‘it’ luxe factor

Prada says lace, so lace it is — Chantilly Lace to be precise. Desi designers like Manish Malhotra and Bhairavi Jaikishan have made sexy lace saris. Yes, this is lace’s biggest comeback. Prepare yourself by digging into your family cupboard for a lace sari and dress it up with a satin blouse for a winter wedding. If saris scare you, look out for lace in trimmings, shrugs and skirts.

If your treasure hunt leaves you empty handed, drop in at 85 Lansdowne on Friday to check out Petanu’s Retro Glamour collection. An offshoot of international label Pashma, Petanu offers French lace saris, tunics, dresses and leggings. The promotion lasts for a week, in association with t2.

The colour for lace this season is black. Next choice: champagne. And if lace is not your thing, you can arrive at a compromise: highest quality cashmere.

The ‘it’ silhouette

Tulip it is. If this means nothing more than a Dutch flower or Aishwarya Rai to you, Kallol Datta to the rescue: “Anything that emphasises the hips, draws the eye to the waist and tapers towards the legs, as a result looking like an inverted tulip, is called a tulip or a pegged silhouette.”

This winter ditch straight lines and don’t be afraid to try out a different silhouette as the tulip is a flattering and forgiving shape. “Since the tulip draws attention to another feature, it does not add bulk. It accentuates the high waist, often the slimmest part of a woman.” Wear the tulip as a dress, high-waisted trousers, jumpsuit or a top over skinny jeans.

The ‘it’ look

Draped continues to be the look for the season. Drapes have been an international red carpet look forever but in India, designer Kallol Datta feels that the popularity can be attributed to the new-generation technically-trained designer who doesn’t shy away from experimenting with muslin and calico. “Trained designers know how to manipulate fabrics, gauge fabric density and fall. The best thing about drapes is that they accommodate every flaw of the human body,” he says. So get ready to be draped this season. There are many fabrics that work well with drapes — medium weights like duchess satins to lighter ones like chiffon. But be careful: Drapes can be dreadful or drab with just one wrong fold, pleat or tuck.

The ‘it’ print

Checkers, plaid and tartan, are the new florals. Forget feminine prints because you need to be strong and powerful this season. “Tartan is soul food for fashion. It does exactly what chicken soup does when you need comfort,” says Sabya. So now that we have established checks are not just for your PJs and collared shirts, get the squares on to your chiffon sari, winter coat or sheath. Square can be glam too!

A Swapan & Seema creation. Picture by Pabitra Das

The ‘it’ effect

Simply put, ombre is shading. And more simply put, your fall-winter wardrobe 2008 has to have at least one ombre-effect outfit. Top, dress, pants, stockings or maybe even a bag, sensual shading is a must to accent your silhouette. Bollywood loves it (remember all the ombre chiffon saris that dance in Switzerland in Yash Raj films) and mainstream fashion loves it too (fall-winter shows were full of ombre). Shading looks equally super on slinky satiny fabrics and casual cottons. So night or day, find your spot in the shade.

The ‘it’ accessory

There are two ‘it’ add-ons you need to own this winter. First is a statement necklace that makes a super strong statement. Next is a belt that should be worn on your high waist.

Dev and Nil, who are launching their accessories line this season, are all for investing in a great belt. They say that this season belts have gone higher and thinner.

And the statement neckpiece is such an important buy right now because this is one trend that is here to stay. All the spring-summer 2009 showings have stunning necklaces. “It just has to be avant garde,” says Nil. Long or a choker, chunky and bold or just a rope of twisted metal — “anything will do as long as it creates drama because the neck is where the focus lies”.

SABYA’s must-haves for the season

1. Pencil skirt. “It is the most important separate for 2008.”

2. Pumps. “Classic pumps come in newer colours like plum, berry and deep ochre. Make sure they have a sane heel.”

3. Stockings. No bare legs in winter. Sabya recommends at least 90 deniers stockings from La Lingerie. “For a cool evening look, wear 110 deniers.”

4. Silk shirt. “It has to be tailor made.”

5. Scarf. A scarf is the best bet for a Calcutta winter. Brighten up your monochromatic winter wardrobe with a fun drape.