Day four of India Couture Week saw a city designer rule the ramp at Grand Hyatt, Mumbai

Sonam Kapoor in an Anamika Khanna creation

It was a clean white catwalk. All frills and fancies were either outside it or over it. Branched-out Papier Mache roses hung overhead.

Two-feet-high dolls (dressed in what else but white) stood facing halved watermelons, dotting the outside periphery of the ramp. Yards of white draped the show area from one end to another. The stage was set and it shared all its traits with the designer and her creations — minimal, white and layered. But just when you think you know it all, comes a sweet surprise. Anamika Khanna’s HDIL India Couture Week showing was all that and more.

The next 30 minutes saw some sculpted silhouettes that were as strong and powerful as the front row (Karan Johar with Sanjay Leela Bhansali and family, Rakeysh Mehra, Madhur Bhandarkar, Anil Kapoor…). The Calcutta designer’s show began with black. And slowly a dash of dull gold in the form of antiquated zardosi crept in. It came in the form of polkas, panels and motifs but the zardosi was never overbearing. The silhouettes that the girls flaunted so fully over semi-transparent black bodysuits and patent black Mary Jane shoes were twisted and varied and each inch of her fabric was textured. Some silhouettes were inspired by the angarkha and others included a modern-day cocoon and trapeze and so-now tulip shape. The layering underneath was wired-structured and full-skirted. Her collection, though contemporary, had enough old-world romance with all its Edwardian influences and a hint of Dior’s 1947 New Look — full luxury skirt and wasp waist.

Some cream outfits came up next and so did a bit of bling. The second sequence saw ombre. The colour story had a new character — a fresh, young red. Anamika’s signature metallic borders, dramatic studs, a pretty paisley pattern and cascading cowls were the highlights. The next sequence told a story of delicate metal mesh resembling antique gold. Capes, kurtas, jackets… the jaali look was exquisite.

Anamika Khanna’s line-up at ndia Couture Week

Beads, mother of pearls and pearls… the embellishments continued to be luxurious. (And funky, especially when bunches of safety pins dressed up a few ensembles!) The detailing was juxtaposed against nets, velvets and tulles — it was top-class contemporary couture.

The final line showed some beautiful saris and lehngas. Lightweight and easy, the lehngas almost had a peasant skirt feel to them! The saris were slinky and super sexy. But the best was saved for the last. ‘It’ cover girl of the moment Sonam Kapoor made her showstopper entry in an antique gold top and cream cowl-draped skirt-meets-dhoti bottom. Long wavy hair pushed on one side, Sonam let her fashionista side take over on the catwalk as she made a natural ramp debut, cheered loudly by her mentor, friends and family.

Sheetal Malhar strikes a pose in a Pallavi Jaikishan sari

The Saawariya actress had told t2 24 hours before the show that she was “nervous as hell” and was “scared to mess it all up” but on the big night her confident steps made the catwalk seemed like a cakewalk!

The second show of Day 4 was by veteran designer Pallavi Jaikishan.

Faux grass lent itself to mini manicured lawns and white park benches, carved pillars and a winding staircase replicated a French lawn.

Models strutted about waving, socialising, blowing kisses to each other and picking chocolates from the steward’s trays as French music played in the background.

Ice cream colours took the ramp. The saris and lehngas were made in net or lace and dotted with pretty petit point embroidery. Scalloped ends and bling on saris and heavily embroidered velvet blouses were the highlights of her collection. She also showed some shararas and suits. The designer’s inspirations went from Europe to Rajasthan and suddenly bandhni saris in festive yellow, red and orange filled the catwalk.

Fancy chignons and updos fixed with faux flowers, red mouths and coral nails completed the models’ look for the show titled La Vie Est Belle or Life is Beautiful.

Luxe factor

Grecian drapes, Elizabethan gowns and Mughal lehngas, Day 5 saw it all

Tinu Verghese in a Varun Bahl ensemble

The zardosi affair carried on to Day 5. Only, it was much more blinged-up though still very beautiful. Varun Bahl showed his fall couture 2008 collection, luxurious and laborious. Churidar kurtas, saris worn over voluminous ghagras and saris were the main silhouettes he showed but like Anamika’s, all his garments were far from mainstream and had a mind of their own.

Varun’s look was almost like a cross between gowns and lehngas! Perhaps, if Victorian gowns would have an Indian soul (or kaarigars), this is what they would look like. His “marriage of Mughal-Rajput dynasty with the Elizabethan dynasty” seemed to work well as haute couture material.

Complementing his clothes, the ramp also looked royal and elegant. His models didn’t just walk, they moved like agile dancers, giving one poetic pose after another at the end of the catwalk. Chantilly lace eye masks, elaborate feathered hair dos and jadau headpieces completed their look.

His fabrics were mostly velvets that sometimes played against tulle and sometimes against chiffon. His colour story was rich — black, mustard, olive and lots of shiny gold. Balloon hemlines, long net sleeves, full skirts and lehngas, cape-like jackets with long trailing ends and cutaway patterns were the highlights of his first sequence. Throughout the show, the focus remained the sleeves. They were exaggerated, cowled, draped or had romantic rosettes; sometimes the ensembles had one sleeve, leaving the other shoulder bare.

The next sequence displayed his mastery over corsets and boning. Amber, moss green, old rose pink… also some whites and wines ruled the ramp. Varun’s embroidery treatments had traditional roots. Towards the end of the show, he came up with happier colours. The sea blue sari offset with bright crimson motifs was a standout. The show closed with Tinu Verghese wearing a very effective gold lehnga and a velvety red jacket and a sun-like ornate headgear.

In very little time Varun has some fan following. The front row pack was led by Karan Johar and Retiesh Deshmukh. Vidya Malavade, Randeep Hooda, adman Prahlad Kakkar and Farhan Akhtar’s wife Adhuna Akhtar were also spotted.

Shilpa Shetty as Tarun Tahiliani’s showstopper

If Day 5 began on a promising note it ended in disappointment despite a stunning showstopper called Shilpa Shetty. Drape master Tarun Tahiliani’s show at India Couture Week was a bad case of déjà vu. And Shilpa Shetty was not the sole reason. The Delhi designer showed way too many pieces from his current fall-winter line. His alibi: “They will be available as couture pieces going forward… made to measure, propositioned to perfection. Henceforth, there will be no confusion between couture and ready to wear!”

The stage was stunning with larger-than-life printed net drapes depicting traditional Indian figures. The style story began with his signature sexy, draped saris in solids and two-tones teamed with ruched blouses or bodysuits. Gold lame, melon, lime, turquoise, coral… a rainbow burst filled the runway.

The next sequence saw lots of chikankari and pearl embroidery on kurtas, sherwanis and saris. This time, the colour story was ivory, biscuit, fawn, cream and gold. Thrown in few and far between were his permanently pleated goddess gowns. And of course saris teamed with short jackets and held together by jewelled cummerbandhs, typical TT-style.

The next sequence saw burgundy bustle skirts and fluffy-poofy skirts styled with jackets and LED belts and charcoal shibori-like kurtas and kaftans, all seen six months back at Wills Lifestyle India Fashion Week.

More digital prints, more drapes, more jewellery all on slinky well-defined signature TT silhouettes followed and then came the “bridal procession”.

Ornate and embroidered, the last 12 pieces were striking. With gota gleaming in the lights, fabric flowing, these heavily worked-upon ensembles made their way to the ramp. The oversized buns and bouffants were beautiful. The colour story went back to as bright as it had begun — corals, deep reds, rusts, rani pink — and it was as bridal as bridal can be.

And then came Shilpa Shetty. Dressed like a bride from head to toe, she walked coyly till the end of the catwalk in a zardosi and Swarovski-laden lehnga cheered by her fiancé Raj Kundra and her sister Shamita Shetty (in a LBD). Other celebrities cheering her on included Arjun Rampal (his wife Mehr Jesia was choreographing the show), Azharuddin with wife Sangeeta Bijlani, Yash Birla and Queenie Dhody.

Sidelights

Anil Chopra of Lakme Fashion Week was spotted in this FDCI-supported event. On invitation of the designers, of course!

Karan Johar doubled as guest and journo running backstage for quotes every now and then.

Sanjay Leela Bhansali, David Dhawan, Rakeysh Mehra, Madhur Bhandarkar and Karan Johar… what’s up with so many Bollywood directors clued into couture?

Arjun Rampal and Mehr’s party on Day 5 was the talk of town. “You have to give me five minutes, darling,” Mehr told Arjun just as Tarun Tahiliani’s show, which she choreographed, got over.

South Bombay and north Bombay were equally represented as OTT “Sindhi Aunties” could give any blinged-up actress a run for her eyeballs. lRitu Kumar’s nostalgic moment on the ramp was special. Who else could persuade ex-supermodels Anna Bredmeyer, Sonalika Oberoi and Shyamoli Verma for a catwalk comeback?

Finale finesse

There were three men of the moment on the final day of india couture week — Manish Malhotra, Rohit Bal and Vijender Singh...

Vijender Singh in a Rohit Bal creation at India Couture Week

Rohit Bal reiterated on Day 6 of India Couture Week how much he loved the lotus. After making a regular appearance on his collection, season after season, the bad boy of fashion couldn’t resist putting it on the catwalk. Huge metal lotuses lined the ramp -— centre and side.

Gudda’s show was as usual overbooked; the energy is always something else — whether he is showing in hometown Delhi or tinseltown Mumbai.

Some ‘it’ men danced their way to the catwalk to herald the models. A stunning Sheetal Malhar opened the show in a stunning white ensemble. This white story made up the first look of the collection. All white, silk and net, typical Rohit Bal 3-D floral embroidery, gota detailing and lurex layers were the highlights.

The designer then went on to black, his second distinct look. The silhouette was fresh — voluminous kurtas, almost trapeze, with salwars and dogri pants — embroidered with gold zardosi. More coats and kurtas followed.

JesseRandhawa in Rohit Bal

The third look of the show flaunted the real couture element. Red, two shades of blue and black velvet came together to tell a story that only Rohit Bal can tell. Lots of avant garde dresses were shown. Exaggerated sleeves, exaggerated skirts and exaggerated detailing… everything in this sequence was larger than life and very haute couture.

Sometime the trio of velvet came as strips, sometime as scallops and sometimes as panels. Can-can dresses, tiered gowns, super poofy skirts, tiny bodices, out of proportion sleeves and a surprise zardosi number were the features of this line.

Then came an army of men following the same style story. Their silhouettes — shorter jackets, achkans, dhoti-pants — were nice and their hair bore the same Samurai look as the women!

A fourth look was also shown — black velvet, played up with orange and red kasab embroidery that was displayed to maximum effect by means of extra large traditional Indian motifs.

Finally, the finale showstopper (a well-kept secret): Vijender Singh strutted to the title track of Singh is Kinng in Akki’s black and red eagle sherwani. The bronze boxer posed happily for the cameras and the audience was equally happy to get a break from the Bolly brigade.

Models dressed in bridal finery became props on the runway as notes from Karunesh’s Punjab floated in the air. A beautiful white-and-gold number made the first entry. A barefooted, alta-lined Bhavna Sharma, with hair half-tied came on the catwalk, half-smiling. The designer’s chosen silhouette was a gherawala skirt and long jackets or kurtas.

Of course, no Manish Malhotra ensemble is complete without a dash of sensuality — this time flowing net dupattas added much movement to the clothes. No Manish show is complete without an actress muse on the ramp but this time the style badshah of Bollywood decided to let his clothes play the starring role. Filmdom was instead represented by Bachchan’s baritone as dialogues from Silsila mixed with some music form the perfect soundtrack for the heavily-embellished garments.

Anchal Kumar wears a signature Manish Malhotra sari

Jewel-tones, solid lehngas finished with lampi borders, ornately embroidered velvets and bright Benarasis appeared. Some were teamed with bling bikini tops, other with sexy net capes. There were anarkali suits and shararas too, swishing about, showing their luxe factor to the fullest. Manish showed some stunning sherwanis, embellished or well-cut plain ones in velvet. He, too, used zardosi and his collection had an old-world Mughal feel. He also showed his typical sari — skin net with gleaming crystals worn with sequinned petticoat and bikini-top blouses.

His last sequence comprised heavy velvety lehngas loaded with Swarovski. They were teamed with lurex cholis and fluted blouses, the look balanced by toned-down pleated chiffons draped casually around the neck, trailing behind…

Aviation minister Praful Patel came to cheer his daughter Poorna on the ramp. Shilpa Shetty accompanied by mom and sister, was back at the venue, this time as front-row candy.

Karan Johar sat with his mom and Ritiesh Deshmukh. The crowd was eclectic — from Shabana Azmi to David Dhawan!

Top trends

Velvet

Zardosi

Churi-sleeves in net

‘It’ silhouette — trailing, voluminous skirts worn with long jackets

Jewel-tones

Shradha Agarwal