Tourists explore the islands in a long-tailed boat

What did did Indiana Jones feel like in Raiders of the Lost Ark — the first of the iconic series — as he canoed his way to find hidden treasure in the forests of Thailand? Not particularly different from the way I did in the mangrove forests and lagoons of Ao Thalane, I’d reckon.

To say you can hear a pin drop as you weave your way through the thick with mangrove forests, is an exaggeration. You begin to want to ask the people next to you to stop breathing — that’s how silent and still these magnificent lagoons are, surrounded by gigantic limestone “karsts” (cliffs), stalagmites and stalactites. The cliffs are covered with plants and leaves that appear to be growing out of control. So thick is the undergrowth here that the cliff on which it grows is barely visible.

Getting to the lagoons is as thrilling as being there, especially if it’s your first kayaking experience. From Krabi in southern Thailand, Ao Thalane is a short half-hour drive, which can be done by taxi or in a hired car. The only way to reach the lagoons is by sea kayaks. At Ao Thalane, you’ll find small kayaking companies to hire kayaks and a guide from, who leads you into the dense mangrove forests that open out into the lagoons.

It’s a short distance from the shore and first you kayak across the sea to reach the swamps. Navigating through the mangrove forests can be a challenge. Even if you’re alone in a kayak (if you can manage to steer it), a guide has to accompany you through one lagoon to the next.

If however you have ample time at hand, there are do-it-on-your-own maps to guide you. But it’s easy to get lost and find yourself back in same lagoon time and again and never know it’s the same one.

When you enter the mangrove swamps, you get the feeling that time is at a standstill. Nothing appears to have changed there for centuries. In fact, Kid Kekina, our guide and owner of the kayak company, confirmed that time had indeed stood still in this part of the world. “I’ve been coming here since I was a kid,” says Kid, now 51, “and nothing at all has changed,” his voice sounding rather loud to my ears.

Every croak of the gigantic frogs, monitor lizards, chameleons and other life forms found in the mangroves is petrifying, with the sound echoing and amplifying in the lagoons. We made our way into and out of four lagoons, which appear the same and yet unique in the thrill they give you.

A constant rain and low tide (we were alone there in the afternoon as the rain had deterred other visitors) made sure that we managed to spend only two hours in the area. Once you are out of the lagoons, it’s easy to make your way onto one of the tiny white, spotless beaches along the looming cliffs.

Apart from kayaking, there’s little to do in Ao Thalane. It’s a small sleepy, green village — the kind that dots all of southern Thailand’s landscape, where you can only take in the natural beauty and peaceful life.

Though Ao Thalane is one of the spots, the entire country around Krabi is “kayaking country”. A 45 minute boat ride from Krabi takes you to Railay — one of the most stunning beaches in Thailand, with a character of its own, thanks to the mix of international tourists.

But where you stay at Railay can make or break your vacation. One of the best spots is the Railay Beach Club bungalows, which is a bit like staying in a jungle bang on the beach. The bungalows, owned by foreigners, are let out when they’re not in residence.

Each bungalow has a Thai styling element but is individualistic and reflects what I think is the owner’s personality (it’s clear no one builder designed them). The 33 houses are built in a thick jungle with huge cliffs as the backdrop but are a stone’s throw from the Railay beach west, enveloped by weird shaped cliffs on two sides.

Railay is an ideal point to base yourself and see the entire region by boat (tourists tend to base themselves in Krabi but it has not much natural beauty, so we preferred Railay).

The tiny town — full of bars, cafés and restaurants — has some incredible rock formations with rock-climbing gear available at every corner. The beach has a water sports and activities shop that lets you try things at your own pace. You can get to see the best of the cliffs (including a trip to Ao Phrang Na, the tourist-infested James Bond island used for shooting the Bond classic, The Man With The Golden Gun, by hiring a speed boat (the long-tailed traditional boats are for shorter distances). The boats make their way between islands, which jut rudely out of the ocean and look like small volcanoes ready to erupt at any moment.

I’m a strong believer of not planning minutely, so Ao Thalane or even kayaking among the cliffs was never on our agenda (we didn’t have one). Yet it turned out to be one of the best experiences we had in Thailand. Next time you’re in Thailand and shopping is not a high priority, close your eyes and head blindly through Bangkok to Krabi. You won’t regret it.

Ready reckoner

Getting there: Fly from Bangkok to Krabi and take a taxi to Ao Thalane’s kayaking hub.

Where to stay: Rent a house in Railay at about 5,000 baht (Rs 6381) a night (minimum two nights stay) without food.

Exchange rate: 1.00 THB = 1.3 INR approx.

Web watch: Log on to http://www.rev-travel.com/kayakthailand.htm