A ramp moment by Rohit Bal

INDIA’S COUTURIERS Manish Malhotra Ritu Kumar Anamika Khanna Tarun Tahiliani Rohit Bal Abu-Sandeep Pallavi Jaikishen Ashish Soni Suneet Verma Varun Bahl Manav Gangwani JJ Valaya

There’s yet another week in fashion. But unlike all the other recent happenings in fashion that have spoken about rifts and ruffles, this one aims to “celebrate” India. It is an ode to our country’s couture, bringing back designers from various camps to a common platform. Mumbai’s Grand Hyatt is hosting the FDCI-endorsed Couture Week (HDIL, the real estate development company, is the title sponsor) from September 16 to 21. t2 caught up with Sunil Sethi, FDCI president…

What is the idea behind a Couture Week in India?

The new proactive governing council, board of directors and I — as the new FDCI president — all of us wanted to do something more for fashion. Couture Week is all about celebrating Indian designers.

When we go abroad, we have to adapt to Western sensibilities but here, we can stick to our own style. It is in this week that we can showcase our embroideries and our strengths to domestic and NRI markets, and other markets with a strong Indian presence, be it Canada, West Asia or USA. Couture Week is all about revival of our crafts and aims to celebrate everything Indian. It is a tribute to the Indian couturier.

How many couturiers are part of Couture Week? On what basis did you invite the designers?

Even though the event is owned by FDCI, we left the choice of designers to HDIL. We have 160 members and we needed proper criterion to select designers for Couture Week. Since we hadn’t been able to decide the list and we wanted the choice of designers to be just and fair, HDIL finalised the designers. This was also to avoid controversies.

Why is HDIL branching into fashion? And how qualified are they to make decisions involving designers?

Today only three things grab attention — Bollywood, cricket and fashion, in that order. HDIL has been involved in the fashion world through sponsorships, representing people and as customers of Indian fashion. They have known the industry from close quarters. For them too, fashion will be the next step so we feel confident about their capabilities.

The list of participants is impressive. Anyone would agree with 90 per cent of the list by any standards. And in this day and age when it’s hard for people to agree, 90 per cent is a great figure.

Is there anyone else you wish to add?

I would love Sabyasachi Mukherjee to be part of this list. He is one of our finest couturists. I really appreciate his talent and would love to have him showcase Bengal’s special crafts but I understand New York Fashion Week comes in the way. We wish him all the best… But he is on my wishlist.

And why is the Couture Week being held in Mumbai?

Firstly, because HDIL is Mumbai-based. Their areas of development are in and around Mumbai. Secondly, we wanted to get out of the notion that FDCI is primarily a Delhi body. And thirdly, we want to take it place to place. After Delhi and Mumbai, the natural progression might be Calcutta.

Why is FDCI involved with Couture Week? It was rumoured to be a Sumeet Nair (of the third Fashion Week fame) venture?

I was also surprised to hear that. Couture Week has always been a property of FDCI. But all’s well that ends well...

What is your reaction on the Fashion Foundation that has been launched?

Power to anyone who is bettering the industry. But anyone who wants to go head on with FDCI and do something similar, all I want to ask is what is he bringing on the table? What is the point of talking about things that FDCI has been doing for the past 10 years?