When we started for South Raidak range of Buxa Tiger Reserve — one of the oldest forest ranges in India — little did we know that getting there would turn out to be an adventure in itself. We started from the Raymatang forest resthouse, near the Bhutan border, for the South Raidak forest resthouse around 10am, expecting to make the journey in about two hours. We were supposed to take a left turn from National Highway 31 at Shamukhtala, but even after driving for three hours, we failed to spot the turn. By then, we had crossed two rivers, the Jayanti and the Sankosh, and were about to cross the Raidak.

Every time we asked for directions, we were asked to move ahead. We crossed the Raidak and came upon a forest checkpost. From experience, I have learnt that forest guards are the best people to ask for directions, and it proved true again. The guards told us that we had left Shamukhtala at least 30 km behind us.

So we turned back and managed to locate the signboard indicating the presence of the Shamukhtala police outpost. Soon, we were at the Samukhtala chaupathi and took a left turn towards Hatipota. We were supposed to take a right turn at Dangi Bazar to head for South Raidak. But it was not our day — we missed Dangi Bazar and shot ahead to the North Raidak forest range office. A passer-by helped us with directions and asked us to watch out for a Kali temple. This time there was no miss and we were on a kutchha road that would lead us straight to South Raidak forest resthouse.

But there was a rivulet to cross about a kilometre and half from the resthouse and the wooden bridge over it was not in a state to bear the weight of our Qualis. A teacher in a nearby primary school informed us that a loaded truck had damaged the bridge that very morning. So we tried to drive across the breadth of the river, but in keeping with our luck since morning, our car got stuck in the mud. Left with no option, my son and I got down to push the vehicle out and got caked in mud all over.

Our travails didn’t end there. At the resthouse, we were greeted with the news that there was no lunch for us and if we wanted dinner, we would have to loan our car to the caretaker to buy provisions from the Dangi Bazar, about 3 km away.

But once we stepped out of the resthouse after freshening up, the sheer beauty of the forest made up for every trouble we encountered on the way. Lush green trees bordered the skyline and birds flew in myriad hues, their calls music to our ears. A family of monkeys sat on a tree nearby, observing us. Two little ones frolicked on the branches while their mother kept a watchful eye.

South Raidak forest range was established around 1900 and the resthouse was constructed in 1909, making it one of the oldest forest resthouses in India. Standing on its balcony, I felt a part of that history, marvelling that the house was almost a century old yet as sturdy and spotless as a knight’s shining armour.

This range is one of the most important elephant corridors of the Buxa reserve. Covering an area of 5,660.45 hectare, it is home to elephant, leopard, hyena, Himalayan Black Bear, fishing cat, jackal, wild dog, boar, wild pig, pangolin, porcupine and different species of deer. It is a haven for avi-fauna, housing hundreds of resident and migratory birds like the Great Indian Pied Hornbill, jungle mynah, red jungle fowl, woodpecker, nightjar, Moonal Pheasant, Grey Heron, various kinds of teal, duck, peacock and egret. Among reptiles, the Raidak forest range is home to the Indian Rock Python, banded krait, King Cobra, Russell’s viper and many other varieties.

That night, exhausted from our adventurous journey, we fell into a deep, peaceful sleep, lulled by forest sounds that promised of another adventure the next day.

Going

Kanchankanya and Uttarbanga Express are the best options. Get down at Alipurduar. If you take the bus, get down at Dangi Bazar and trek 3 km. A car will take you directly to the forest resthouse.

Staying

The resthouse has two bedrooms with attached bath and a wide balcony on the first floor. The ground floor has a furnished drawing room and dining room, decorated in the British style. The place runs on solar power. For reservation, contact: Deputy Field Director, Buxa Tiger Reserve, Alipurduar Court. Alipurduar, Jalpaiguri. Pin: 736122.