The twinkling fairy lights of Darjeeling town and the smell of fresh compost are the first things that greet you as you make your winding way down the garden path to the bungalow of the Tumsong Tea Estate. The bungalow emerges out of the acres of tea bushes and early evening mist — a sprawling colonial construction with a green gabled roof and lawn alongside the factory and a few quaint village houses.

A three-hour ride from Bagdogra takes you away from the scorching heat of the plains into the heart of tea country. Located about 30 km away from Darjeeling, Tumsong is at about 4,000 feet above sea level and covers an area of approximately 186 hectares. The terrain ranges from steep to gentle rolling slopes that go right down to the river Chhota Rangit. The bungalow and factory are next to each other in the valley surrounded by miles of tea bushes. Following in the footsteps of Glenburn and Makaibari, Chamong is the third group to turn to the concept of tea tourism, offering luxurious pampering in grand colonial style.

Tumsong is 100 per cent organic, with a million dewy spider webs that glint in the sun as evidence of it. It is the first of the 13 estates owned by Chamong, which has been renovated into a luxurious accommodation with sprawling rooms, attached bathrooms and a spectacular view of the valley as well as the Kanchenjunga range. The adjoining estates of Marybong and Lingia are also due to be renovated.

There are four suites at present with a huge master bedroom/suite and three smaller suites. With wooden panelling and high-beamed ceilings, the bungalow is a combination of homeliness and modernity. Thought has gone into the decor, with its antique furniture and local touches in the form of framed photographs, sketches and Tibetan Thangka paintings. The staff is courteous and friendly and are happy to chat and provide endless cups of refreshing tea. The property has its share of legends of the English managers, the burra sahibs, who were quick with their tempers and even quicker with their guns as they lorded over their territory.

Our first evening at Tumsong was spent over wine, snacks and conversation about tea in the cosy living room with its warm wooden furniture and huge fireplace. There was a the neighbouring village (each estate has a number of small villages where the workers live), dressed in her traditional finery, danced to a beautiful Nepali song echoing the splendour of the hills. A sudden shower, a fabulous dinner with an Indian and Continental spread and a few more cups of the delicate First Flush tea followed.

The ground floor of the bungalow comprises the living room, a dining area, the kitchen and a recreation room that is to house a collection of books, music and a home-theatre system. A verandah, encircling the bungalow, has cheerful cane furniture where one can sit with a book, a cup of tea, do a spot of work or gaze at the surrounding mountains for hours.

The special feature of this retreat is obviously the association with tea. At a factory visit and trip around the garden, we saw what it takes for the leaf to be transformed into the golden coloured brew in our cups. We also were part of a tree-planting ceremony, which is to be a regular feature of the package for guests at Tumsong. The plants are named after the guests, who continue to receive reports on the growth and even receive the first batch of tea from the plant.
Lunch had delicious Nepali dishes, including exotic pickles and salads whipped up by Suman, the friendly housekeeper who always added a local touch to every meal, from fresh local cheese to the famous sausages from Keventer’s in Darjeeling. This was followed by visit to the Chhota Rangit River that runs through the estate.

At 150 euros (Rs 9,300) a night per room ,on twin-sharing basis, the price includes pick-up and drop from Bagdogra/NJP, all meals, drinks (IMFL), sightseeing in Darjeeling as well as camping trips or treks. They also plan to develop tie-ups with other heritage hotels/home-stays in the region and introduce an organic garden with produce from it stocking the kitchen as well as a tea boutique. Riverside picnics, angling and the construction of a spa are part of plans for the estate.

Knowing tea

The first estates were set up in the 19th century with saplings imported from China. There are now about 87 estates in Darjeeling. They produce tea whose flavour is distinctive and unparalleled, formed by the soil, weather conditions and sloping terrain. The Darjeeling estates follow the orthodox form of tea manufacture where the leaves are carefully handpicked and processed to keep the flavours intact and the leaves undamaged. The plucking is done primarily by women in shifts through the day and is the primary source of occupation for almost 50 per cent of the locals.

Processing tea

The process of making black tea takes about 18 hours. The tea is plucked carefully with two leaves and a bud and transported to the factory where it is withered through the night. The dried leaves are rolled and sifted, after which they are sent for a second rolling and sifting. They are then fermented by exposing them to the elements and then sent to the dryers. In a final sorting, the stalks are removed and the coarse tea is separated from the finer variety. It is now ready for packaging.

Brewing tea

For the perfect cup of tea, measure out tea leaves equal in weight to a 25 paisa coin. Put it in a pot. Pour boiling water over it and let it steep for three to five minutes. For the best flavours to emerge, don’t add milk or sugar.