(Middle) A halt on NH 31 en route to Pelling; (top) the sun lights up a Pelling valley through the clouds; (above) feeling great in a monastery courtyard. Pictures by the author

My insatiable wanderlust is reined in very effectively by the need to hold down a job. Given the slightest opportunity though, I’ve always managed to hit the road. Bothered by a skyline dominated by concrete, I decided to take a sabbatical from work and ride my motorcycle to Sikkim.

At first it seemed like a terrible idea, as bad roads and the December chill made things pretty difficult for both bike and biker.

I spent the night in Siliguri and began to ride up the road under crisp, sunny skies to Nayabazar, with the Teesta river to keep me company. After a short break and steaming momos, I headed to Melli Bridge and crossed over to the checkpost on the other side. I headed towards the sleepy hamlet of Pelling in western Sikkim, hoping to spend a couple of days there doing nothing.

I rode into Pelling late in the afternoon, chilled to the bone and hungry. There weren’t too many people, as it was off-season. I put up in a room at Hotel Haven. A few cups of tea and a hot shower later, I felt much better and was able to appreciate the hospitality of the young Bengali lad who ran the place. He kept me busy with his banter and pakodas till late in the evening. I hit the sack after an early dinner.

The next morning I woke up to see the Kanchenjunga range in front of my eyes — a spectacular view from my window. It was a sight that I will always remember and cherish.

Pelling is primarily divided into upper, middle and lower sections. Upper Pelling includes a helipad, which is more of a converging point for tourists and locals than it is for helicopters. Middle Pelling consists of the bazaar and some of the slightly larger hotels. The road meanders through middle Pelling and goes on through the lush and beautiful lower Pelling, dotted with pretty houses and quaint shops, all the way down to the Darap valley.

I spent most of my time ambling lazily around town or sitting in the sun and savouring the tranquillity of the place. Even now when I look at the photographs of the place, I can smell the mountain air and feel as if I’m back on my bike and riding on the mountain roads.

R. Rajesh
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