It’s Ashtami. That means it’s time to go the whole six yards, to look your feminine best in the most sensuous garment, the sari. Whether it’s a serious anjali on Ashtami morning, or a casual adda on Navami, the sari is a winner everywhere.

It has long been established that the sari need not be a staid, matronly garment. It can be the perfect foil for the fetching belle of the para puja. “It is classic, timeless and elegant. No other dress looks as good as a sari and choli worn well,” says Kiran Uttam Ghosh. The designer, however, warns wearers to choose their saris and cholis keeping their body-type in mind. A sari can show off as well as camouflage. “A very skinny woman can wear the saris that have more body, like a tangail. A more bulky woman can go for saris like crepes, which have a slimming effect, yet do not cling to the body,” she suggests.

How to drape your sari is decided by more than body type — your choice makes a loud and clear statement. t2 decodes what these various styles and drapes mean, lest you get your messages mixed up…

Seedha pallu: Perfect attire if you are hitting the dandiya trail. Even otherwise, it’s a popular look. It is a good option if the pallu is the highlight of your sari. “The look is very dressy, but not behenji. It can be worn with any sari that has a heavy border or pallu,” says designer Shantanu Goenka. Pair it with a longish blouse and don’t spread the pallu out, just let it hang straight for a smart look, he advises.

The Bangali bou: It was Devdas and the K-serials that reminded us what a pleasure it could be to wear the sari the Bengali way. Suddenly it was not just for granny — it was what the stylish young married woman or single girl would wear on festive days.
It remains, as always, the perfect way to dress up for Ashtami morning. “There are many innovative ways of wearing the sari the Bengali way. Traditionally, the drape does not have pleats, but today, it is being pleated and only the pallu is being draped twice to give it that traditional look,” says Suchismita Dasgupta, designer.

Halter-choli sari: Don’t try this unless you have the style and substance to carry it off. This is a smart and sensuous combo that leaves the back all but bare. If you have a toned back and arms and statuesque shoulders, show them off with the help of a halter. “The look is bold, though not as bold as a corset, and it’s the perfect way to dress for a cocktail party. Chiffons and lace saris look very good with both a halter-neck choli and a corset,” explains designer Shantanu Goenka.

Noodle straps: It was Mandira Bedi who showed the world how to pair the sari with noodle-straps. There has been no looking back since. This is for the pretty-young-things who want to blend the best of East and West. Again, forget it if you have bunked your workout in the run-up to the Pujas. “It perfectly complements a woman’s good collarbones and slim (not skinny) upper body,” says Kiran.

“This is for when you want to look different, so you are wearing a sari with a noodle strap instead of a Western outfit. And a noodle-strap top is a very versatile garment — the same one can be worn with many different saris,” adds Suchismita. Again, chiffons and lace saris blend best with this look.

Long-sleeves, high-neck blouse: This is for the dignified look. On a young girl, it might look school-marmish, but if it’s quiet grace that you are looking for, you can’t go wrong with this. The back and the long sleeves hide almost every flaw of figure, so it looks equally becoming on all women, regardless of age or size. “My mother-in-law looks so elegant in a sari. She wears more conservative blouses and saris,” says Kiran. The very slender designer uses the sleeves to her own advantage, too. “I need a bit of sleeve to cover my arms.”

The neckline is of great importance with this look. “A V-neck might make the collarbones stick out if someone is too thin. A round-necked blouse might be a better option,” Kiran recommends.

Backless choli: The Hum Aapke Hain Koun…! effect was steamy indeed. Now, the backless choli is synonymous with the dhak dhak girl — and we don’t just mean Madhuri. “We often think that traditional outfits are not sexy, but that’s not true. A traditional Rajasthani backless choli is so sexy. There’s only a dori at the back and the rest of the back is bare,” Shantanu Goenka explains. One can wear any kind of sari with it. But unfortunately, not every kind of woman can wear one of these. A perfect back, perfect attitude and the perfect audience are the essential tools to make this look a success.

Poulomi Banerjee
How do you wear your sari? Tell t2@abpmail.com