Raj Mahtani with a Paris piece, surrounded by his “inspirations”. Picture by Pabitra Das

Couture jeweller Raj Mahtani is suffering from severe stress. His actress-friend in Mumbai (the ‘pretty’ woman with deep dimples) is “bugged” with him because he is too busy to touch base with her. Sigh. The who’s who of the country has pressing trousseau needs, and all want his undivided attention. Sigh. International magazines are angling for his interviews. Sigh. And in exactly a month’s time, Raj will be in Paris with Anamika Khanna for Fashion Week. Gasp!

Over to the man…

On Anamika…

The way she creates textile and design, she puts things in a different perspective. The research and development that goes into her work is outstanding. Anamika is a volcano of talent. When she was offered Paris Fashion Week and she thought of her style story, she called and said that I was the only person who came to her mind.

There are three reasons why I’m doing the show— firstly, it’s a privilege that I was the first to come to her mind; second, it’s the prestigious Paris Fashion Week; third, I sincerely thought we could make magic together.

The style story…

I had to understand what Anamika’s clothes were like and the style statement that she was going to make on the international ramp. We brainstormed and came up with a fabulous look that has never been attempted before. I am deviating from my signature style but the line is still very OTT, in a very careless manner. The jewels are an integral part of her story and you can’t segregate the outfits from the jewels. We have managed to make them look like second skin, almost like inner garments. The jewels are sensuous and the woman can wear them to bed or while shopping. The style story will showcase a very contemporary woman who is very careless. It is about a modern princess.

The collection…

Let us say the line is a modern rendition of my signature style. My style has been changed to suit the mood we plan to take to Paris. Our combination is going to achieve a proportion that will be larger than life. The basics are all in place — rooted deeply in tradition but the rendition, as I said, is very modern, very contemporary. I will be dressing 10 to 15 girls, but one girl would be wearing as much as two or three girls would usually wear! I have used single colours and have played with monotone. So there will be diamonds with emeralds or diamonds with rubies but rarely have I mixed the two. I have emphasised the size and style to the hilt.

Since it is a spring-summer collection, there are beautiful floral pieces. The jewels are mad, but there is a distinct method to the madness. The jewels are almost woven together to fit the skin like a glove. It will be all over, but the attitude is going to be as if it’s just not there, so careless.

Jewels on the catwalk…

Jewellery is per se never a part of Paris Fashion Week. It is usually a part of the accessory stall or trade events. Even John Galliano uses expensive costume jewellery and doesn’t put precious gems on the ramp. This is one of the few times that couture jewels have been taken to a mainstream international fashion week. There is no question of jewels not getting seen on the ramp. My jewels will be big, they will always be seen, otherwise I would not do it.

Take 5

1. Designers who inspire you?
I love Alexander McQueen’s work and John Galliano’s theatrics.

2. Designers who don’t?
Prada’s clothes do nothing for me.

3. Who’s your muse?
Madonna. I love her spunk and passion to experiment.

4. A stone that doesn’t turn you on?
I don’t like opaque gems. Stones have to be translucent to turn me on.

5. Final word...
After our show in Paris, stylists there will be forced to re-think what they’ve been doing all these years

What would you rather splurge on — clothes or jewellery? Tell t2@abpmail.com