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THE CALCUTTA KITCHEN (Mitchell
Beazeley, £20) brings together recipes (written up by the
London-based Bengali chef, Udit Sarkhel), beautiful photographs
(by Jason Lowe) of the making, selling and eating of food
in the city, and varied, affectionate accounts of food as
a cosmopolitan way of life in Calcutta by Simon Parkes of
The Food Programme on BBC Radio 4 . Parkes writes as an
insider to Bengali domestic life across the entire social
spectrum, making his account of food a way into the rich
and bewildering muddle of life in Calcutta. His eye for
the human or historical detail is sensitively realized by
Lowe’s camera. There are separate chapters on home cooking,
fish, vegetables, Islamic cuisine, Park Street, street food,
Bengali sweets and the local festivities and rituals. Since
Sarkhel introduces himself as a Bengali, he ought to have
known that mustard sauce is not “khashundi” but kashundi,
and the Bengali for she-goat is not “pathar”. |