Club screening committees emphasise that they select new members based on “social, educational and professional background”. There are strong possibilities that they include weight as one of the criteria. No prizes for guessing that the ratio of healthy to thin club members is around 80:20.

That’s because what really makes a club a club is its food. Every city club boasts of their special signature dishes that obviously go down too well with their members. Here’s the spread.

The older, classy clubs are really with it. Bengal Club, the club with the best kitchen in town, serves the grandest, most succulent prawn on toast. And their souffles can get you drunk and you can have them in platefuls. At Tolly, head straight for Prawn Scampi and Lamb Chops. If you are in a lighter mood, try the sandwiches and pancakes. And Calcutta Club has the best bakery.

“Steak with French fries is my personal favourite,” claims young member Maneka Kumar at CC&FC, the more than 200-year-old club on Gurusaday Road. At the golfing green in RCGC (picture above of the spread at a club party), golfers enjoy a hearty breakfast with Savoury Omelette and Chicken Cutlet at the Third Shamiana. The samosa at Tenth Shamiana is another fried favourite.

At Bengal Rowing Club, most rowers and scullers start their day with an unlikely breakfast: Fish ’n’ Chips. This, apart from beans on toast, sprouts for the health-conscious and juice or coffee to wash them down. “At the club, homemade natural ice-cream goes down well with children,” smiles Tapan Chatterjee, catering supervisor. Another popular demand faced by the club kitchen is the plate of six spicy phuchkas. Members of Dalhousie Institute swear by its kebabs, Chinese Onion Pakoras and fried beef chops.

Saturday Club makes the best mutton samosas. Grilled Fish completes the menu.

Burp.

social register

• February 14: Valentine’s Day celebration at Space Circle, 7.30 pm. Continental dinner at Princeton Club. Priscilla Corner and Francis Lepcha at CC&FC, 7.30 pm.
• February 15: Los Amigos night at Princeton Club, 9 pm.
• February 17: Governor’s Cup, Eastern Command Cup and The Calcutta Million at RCTC.