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In mens wear today, nothing
is off limits anymore. Frills, flounces, bows, pleats, see-through
sheers, pastels, neons, graffiti, graphics, grunge... anything
goes! There are men here, there and everywhere who are wearing
all kinds of things their fathers would have thrown a fit
over and probably still do! And you thought fashion and
style went hand-in-hand with women?
In what author Shernaaz Engineer
describes as a fascinating project in chronicling
the contemporary male style idiom, Soul Of Style,
a 196-page overview of mens fashion, describes, dissects
and sets the ground rules for male style as we perceive
it today. The creative endeavour has been supported by Siyaram
Silk Mills.
The volume starts off with a historical
perspective of the evolution of mens fashion. Fashion
designer Bennu Sehgal points out that men are getting
feminine as far as colours are concerned? its a bit
of gender-bender ideology at work. Women want to be like
men, what with their trousers and crisp corporate shirts.
And men want to explore their feminine side.
Designer Narendra Kumar notes
that we have reached a stage of dichotomy where the
Indian market doesnt care for Indian clothes unless
it is for the odd occasion like a marriage or
a festival. Post-1960, we have moved almost entirely into
Western silhouettes and styles? it is inevitable that fashion
had to move towards a utilitarian function at some point.
The list of fashion icons includes
the Indian maharajas of yore, Jawaharlal Nehru (whose innovation
was the Saville Row-patented Nehru jacket), Mahatma Gandhi
(who made a political as well as fashion statement with
his bare torso), Rajiv Gandhi, M.F. Husain, Amitabh Bachchan,
the westernised Dev Anand and the original metrosexual,
Rajesh Khanna.
There are entire chapters dedicated
to fabrics, colours, suits, Friday dressing, wedding wear
as well as accessories like belts, cufflinks, watches, shoes,
pens and wallets. A whole section has been devoted to ties
and the many styles of knotting them along with step-by-step
illustrations.
Women havent been altogether
left out. In the chapter The Unfair Advantage, there
is a low-down on womens dressing in corporate circles,
make-up and styling tips.
Did you know that construction
in mens wear parlance meant shoulder padding and other
manufacturing processes that add an engineered, three-dimensional
shape to a suit jacket? For many more such interesting information,
flip through the book.It offers valuable insight into the
arena of mens fashion from the likes of Falguni and
Shane Peacock, Anita Dongre, Krishna Mehta, Nandita Mahtani,
Narendra Kumar, Payal Singhal, Salim Asgarally and Pradeep
Hirani.
Take a look at some striking photographs
by Suresh Natrajan. Though not highly stylised, they are
good enough to give you an understanding of the clothes
that are described in the volume. One of the prime attractions
of the book is the style guide at the end ? a set of pencil
sketches of attire designs that will make things easier
for even the layman. The book is priced at Rs 2,500.
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