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Spotlight: star to style

After a dramatic star-studded Day One, Lakme Fashion Week’s Day Two in Mumbai was about some serious no-frills fashion.

A clean, stripped look emerged as the defining theme of Wednesday. While the ramp and the crowd were stripped of much Bollywood presence (Arbaaz Khan with the Arora sisters and Tania Zaetta being the only exceptions), the garments were stripped of surface embellishments and dramatic accessorisation.

“My collection caters to a mass market; it doesn’t aspire for Bollywood. So, my show didn’t need any Bollywood star to walk the ramp. Mine is simple, pret clothing for everyday people and so I decided to keep the show star-free,” said designer Priyadarshini Rao.

Inspired by the “retro blues of New Orleans, the magical realism of Marquez and a lazy Sunday afternoon siesta”, Priyadarshini’s collection was all about piling on separates to create an individual look.

Assimilating influences of everyday street fashion, the line comprised skirts teamed with shirts and tops, men’s shirts in subdued hues, jackets of varying lengths, kurtas paired with leggings and capris, short schoolgirl dresses, pants with multiple pockets, layered minis, capris and more.

A mild touch of prints and appliques decorated the no-embellishment line, while textures formed the mainstay. Matte pinks, dull greens, whites, beiges and blues made up the palette. The silhouettes were body-flattering.

“This is a very personal collection, where I have deliberately stayed away from the beaten track of Indian designers with an overdose of surface ornamentation. It’s realistic in terms of price points (mostly between Rs 650 and Rs 2,000) and also shapes and sizes,” said the designer, after her 7 ’clock show.

The clean look continued in the show that followed, which showcased every bit of designer Wendell Rodricks’ signature style.

Glimpses from the Wendell Rodricks show on Wednesday evening. Pictures by Pabitra Das

Titled Isadora in India, the resort wear collection by the Goa-based designer drew inspiration from the life of legendary ballet dancer Isadora Duncan.

“Breaking away from the confines of Russian ballet, Isadora danced barefoot, scantily dressed in Greek costumes. Her celebrated simplicity was oceanic in depth and she is credited with inventing what we call today modern dance?” read the introduction to the line.

Wendell’s collection inspired by Isadora’s imaginary visit to India was broken up into four different looks ? The Purist, Summer Fresh, Nature’s Child and Celebration. The designer started off with his trademark whites and ivories and slowly introduced nudes, dull pinks, turquoise, olives, azure blues and acid greens. The fabrics were a mix of flowing sheers, crushed cottons and crinkled pre-washed. Cocktail dresses, tunics, minis, hot pants, lycra blouses, men’s shirts and tees, skirts in myriad styles, sarongs, bermuda churidars, lungis, coarse wool jackets, sherwanis and Nehru jackets for men, saris with satin cholis for women made up the line. In true Wendell style, unusual shapes and cuts and often the draped look were the highlights of the all-season line, sans any surface adornments and accessorisation.

“I stayed away from accessorisation because the clothes don’t need any. You can dress them up with jewellery if you want,” offered the designer. Steering clear of a star act was a deliberate decision for him, too. “After the overdose of actors and actresses, I didn’t want any for my show. I decided to let the clothes stand out,” he smiled.

Earlier in the day, designer Sonam Dubal presented his fall-winter 2006-07 collection Cosmic Romance. Inspired by the Shamanistic rituals, the collection was all about the “cultural vivacity still prevalent in the eastern Himalayas, a culture that is pan-Asian in its reach”.

Rich weaves and textures ? crepe de chine, handwoven textiles of Assam, silk and traditional eastern weaves shaped the garments. The silhouettes drew from traditional Tibetan dresses ? angarakha, bakhu, honju, choli, wraps and sherwani.

The colours were drawn from nature ? rusts, browns, cobalt blues, creams, reds, burgundies, emerald greens and blacks.

Prints with a 1920s map of Asia and abstract etching were the highlights.

Quilting in threadwork with shell bandhni, copper and dull zari work, silk-stitched stripes and floral extensions embellished the clothes.

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