Changing times: Two pictures from the Ballabhadas Eshwardas 1953 souvenir show the way food was hawked on platforms before and after it started. (Above) The new eatery

Food and service were quite satisfactory ? Subhas Chandra Bose (10.10. 31)

The meals are sumptuous and the service is courteous and good ? Jawaharlal Nehru. (July 2, 1937)

The food served was plenty and well cooked ? Dr B.C. Roy. (8.9.1939)

Any restaurateur would give his cutlery and half his kitchen to get such endorsements. But Ballabhadas Eshwardas, one of India?s oldest railway catering services, received many such compliments from stalwarts ever since it started chugging along the tracks in 1923.

?Around 400 stations around the country were covered by my grandfather Ballabhdas Agarwal. There were tea stalls, pantry cars and refreshment rooms that serviced the travelling public,? says Gopaldas Agarwal, a businessman and autograph-collector whose hobby started with the scribbled comments.

Those were eventful times in Indian history and memorable moments came even while doing business.

When Gandhiji?s ashes were being taken from Delhi to Allahabad, Nehru travelled by train. The whole team was served free.

During the famine of 1944, the railway authorities requested Ballabhdas to start cheap grain shops for railway employees. ?We have heard how he turned nights into days to keep the supply running,? says Gopaldas.

The caterer ran out of steam in 1955 when railway catering was nationalised. ?In one night, we lost the entire contract.?

The grandson has kept the banner flying. There is one tiny outlet near the pre-paid taxi stand in Howrah station that still bears the chain?s name and serves a bhat-daal platter. ?We will never sell that,? he says.

He is also spreading wings in the city, having just launched the first air-conditioned eatery in the Dalhousie area. ?It was a shame that there was no decent place to eat in a 2-3 km radius in Calcutta?s busiest zone,? Bharat Baid, Gopaldas?s partner says.

Other than bankers and myriad multinational company executives, Caf? Amer serves lawyers from the high court. ?During lunch, the place is full of black coats.? The vegetarian restaurant also has a conference facility.

?In the past, we have served half of India. Now let us serve at least a part of Calcutta,? Gopaldas smiles.