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Milan mantra: Frog Princess rediscovered

Even daring to dream about going to Milan for Fashion Week had seemed wrong so far. It is the fashion capital of the world (though Paris still claims to be) and these were designers I grew up seeing in magazines. It seemed impossible that I too would get a chance to go. It is so exciting to be seen on the same platform as designers like Prada, Missoni and Gianfranco Ferre.

My collection has the same sensibility as Frog Princess (seen at India Fashion Week) as both are spring-summer 2005 lines.

But this one has far greater depth. It is like an edited version of that, taking the best of the designs and concepts and developing them. There are a lot of distressed fabrics, tea stains, gussets and layering. I have worked mainly with chiffon and cotton. It is almost European with an Indian soul.

I also wanted to carry some of Bengal with me, so there is a lot of kantha stitch and quilting. I have used quite a bit of vegetable block prints, which Bengal is famous for.

so, for the hair, I am using narrow tangail borders as selvages to be braided into the hair, and then coiled up at the side of the head, with little tendrils hanging out. Like the kind of braids with ribbons little girls wear to sleep.

I am reviving one of the best parts of my first India Fashion Week collection — the models will be wearing glasses again, perched on the nose, Meg Ryan style. Freckles, light lips and smudged mascara will complete the look.

The girls will walk aimlessly down the ramp, eating bread and chocolate again to the sound of vintage violin music.

To the world, India is still all about peacocks and elephants. I didn’t want to show that at all. I consciously avoided the opulent world of maharajas. This is a second hand, worn in collection once again.

It also goes quite against what Italian fashion is famous for — cuts and finishing. The clothes are almost shapeless, with a lingerie look. But then, it isn’t sexy lingerie, either. It is more Victorian, back to the days of bloomers.

Getting ready for an international event like this was quite a feat. Once again, I found myself involved with too many projects at the same time.

I had to turn down the chance to go to New York fashion week, which I was supposed to attend as a delegate, having won a competition at India Fashion Week. But there was no way I could go there at the beginning of September. I would rather spend that week working on my Milan clothes.

Logistically, it is also a struggle. When a sportsman goes abroad to represent the country, there is a huge amount of interest from sponsors. Luckily I was doing a collection for Tanishq and when I approached them they readily agreed to come in as main sponsor for the trip. Otherwise it would have been impossible for me to cover the costs. They are also designing the jewellery for the show, inspired by some junk trinkets I picked up from a warehouse recently.

I am almost hoping my show is received with huge critical acclaim; but we receive no orders! There is a huge amount of detailing that has gone into each outfit and with so many things happening I don’t think we could handle it. Not including time spent on embroidery, we are spending over a day on each ensemble.

Finally, I hope to be noticed in Milan. Nothing more. So next year, they invite me back!

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