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| Model Sudipta flaunts an ensemble from Sabyasachi’s
line for Milan Fashion Week. Picture: Pabitra Das. Make-up: Prabir Kr De |
Even daring to dream about going to Milan for Fashion
Week had seemed wrong so far. It is the fashion capital of the world (though Paris
still claims to be) and these were designers I grew up seeing in magazines. It
seemed impossible that I too would get a chance to go. It is so exciting to be
seen on the same platform as designers like Prada, Missoni and Gianfranco Ferre.
My collection has the same sensibility as Frog Princess
(seen at India Fashion Week) as both are spring-summer 2005 lines.
But this one has far greater depth. It is like an
edited version of that, taking the best of the designs and concepts and developing
them. There are a lot of distressed fabrics, tea stains, gussets and layering.
I have worked mainly with chiffon and cotton. It is almost European with an Indian
soul.
I also wanted to carry some of Bengal with me, so
there is a lot of kantha stitch and quilting. I have used quite a bit of
vegetable block prints, which Bengal is famous for.
so, for the hair, I am using narrow tangail borders
as selvages to be braided into the hair, and then coiled up at the side of the
head, with little tendrils hanging out. Like the kind of braids with ribbons little
girls wear to sleep.
I am reviving one of the best parts of my first India
Fashion Week collection — the models will be wearing glasses again, perched on
the nose, Meg Ryan style. Freckles, light lips and smudged mascara will complete
the look.
The girls will walk aimlessly down the ramp, eating
bread and chocolate again to the sound of vintage violin music.
To the world, India is still all about peacocks and
elephants. I didn’t want to show that at all. I consciously avoided the opulent
world of maharajas. This is a second hand, worn in collection once again.
It also goes quite against what Italian fashion is
famous for — cuts and finishing. The clothes are almost shapeless, with a lingerie
look. But then, it isn’t sexy lingerie, either. It is more Victorian, back to
the days of bloomers.
Getting ready for an international event like this
was quite a feat. Once again, I found myself involved with too many projects at
the same time.
I had to turn down the chance to go to New York fashion
week, which I was supposed to attend as a delegate, having won a competition at
India Fashion Week. But there was no way I could go there at the beginning of
September. I would rather spend that week working on my Milan clothes.
Logistically, it is also a struggle. When a sportsman
goes abroad to represent the country, there is a huge amount of interest from
sponsors. Luckily I was doing a collection for Tanishq and when I approached them
they readily agreed to come in as main sponsor for the trip. Otherwise it would
have been impossible for me to cover the costs. They are also designing the jewellery
for the show, inspired by some junk trinkets I picked up from a warehouse recently.
I am almost hoping my show is received with huge critical
acclaim; but we receive no orders! There is a huge amount of detailing that has
gone into each outfit and with so many things happening I don’t think we could
handle it. Not including time spent on embroidery, we are spending over a day
on each ensemble.
Finally, I hope to be noticed in Milan. Nothing more.
So next year, they invite me back!
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