Strange how the momo has almost become mainstream. There was a time when only few choice outlets were steaming up the scrumptious Tibetan dumplings. Now, they look to be competing with the chowmein-chilli chicken combo at every neighbourhood wok.

The momo mania all started off Elgin Road. There were three tiny eateries — Hamro Momo, Momo Plaza on Suburban Hospital Road and Tibetan Delight tucked away in a tiny lane — at shouting distance from each other.

It kicked off with a Tibetan couple on Suburban Hospital Road. “When they closed down, my mother, Mithu, asked them if she could take over,” explains Dinesh Singh, who runs Hamro — which means ‘our’ in Nepalese. Chicken and pork steamed momos and thukpa were all that was on offer when they started out 17 years ago under a tree. Now the fare is far more varied at the tiny eatery. An assortment of sauces and dishwater soup still accompanies every order.

Then, 1995 saw a fourth player — Orchid — gunning for a slightly (and we really mean ever-so-slightly) more affluent clientele. They started stirring up their own special pan-fried recipe, which involved coating steamed momos in a spicy sauce. Now, this has sparked a mini revolution.

But the lightly seasoned minced meat steamed in a thin wheat-flour wrapper makes for a light — and if you avoid the fried variation — healthy meal. It’s as light on the pocket as it is on the tummy, coming at between Rs 15 and Rs 45 a plate, depending on where you are and what variety you choose.

Let’s not get into the authenticity argument. Apparently, in Tibet, momos — also known as Momocha in Nepal — are often made with yak meat. Fried momos in general are also a departure. So, instead of wondering whether you are biting into the real thing, go for whatever suits your rumbling stomach.

Hamro Momo

The oldest and some say the best for the authentic steamed version. Also stirs up a range of Chinese choices.

Tibetan Delight

Tucked away in a little lane off Chowringhee, this is the second player to hit the momo market, and is also a hot favourite.

Orchid

Introduced innovation into the momo race. Appeals to the more “posh” crowd, too, with more seating space.

Momo Plaza

The other roomy budget option on Momo Street

The Propah Picks

From Mainland China to Taaja’s, lots of restaurants have tried their hand at momos. But it is not quite the same thing for one brought up on the tiny confines of the original momo houses.