How to get there Train to Berhampur on the Howrah-Chennai line of South-Eastern Railway. An 18-km auto or trekker ride from the station to Gopalpur. Or take a flight to Bhubaneshwar, 180 km from Gopalpur

Where to stay No need to make bookings. There are plenty of hotels (mostly sea-facing). There are houses that let out rooms and, of course, there are hotels, some with rooms for as little as Rs 200. All are clean. To name a few: Oberoi Palm Beach, Green Park Kalinga, Rohini, Sea Pearl etc. For OTDC bookings, call 22443653, 22441195

Go boating in the backwaters or swimming in the sea. Relive the days of the Raj with a tour of the old buildings or slurp the delicious seafood on offer. That’s Gopalpur-on-Sea for you. Small and quaint, with an old-world charm that is inescapable. But the advantages of modern facilities are very much available in the plethora of places to stay at the seaside resort, in Orissa’s Ganjam district.

Gopalpur’s importance as a port city harks back to the Kalinga dynasty. Word of its allure, fresh air and bounty of sea spread further during the British rule. The area was developed as a retreat for Anglo-Indian personnel of the South-Eastern Railway and it became famous for its wealthy clientele of the British and the Bengalis alike.

Once a thriving port, it is now what it originally was — a fishing village. Look hard enough at the colonial buildings and the ruins of the jetty, testament to its past glory, and it takes you back some 100 years.

The sea is rough but not dangerous. Take a tumble in the Bay of Bengal to work up an appetite — the seafood must not to be missed.

Sun yourself on the beach or retreat into the shade of the casuarina forests and hydrate yourself with coconut water. If you are in luck and the person selling the fruit can climb trees, he will be all too willing to bring down the one you point to.

Another top draw is the fish auction on the beach. But beware, do not move a muscle when the auction is on. Scratch your head, roll your moustache or make any strange movement and you could end up with the entire day’s catch. That is the way bids are placed.

Had it not been for the benevolence of the auctioneer, I would have been saddled with 35 kg of pomfret fish and poorer by Rs 850.

If you’re in the mood for some sightseeing, the Gopalpur Lighthouse is a must see. It’s on the edge of the sea, about a 15-minute walk and then a 154-step climb. But the view is worth the effort. The Gopal Mandir — a temple dedicated to Lord Krishna, built sometime in the 18th century — too, deserves a dekho.

Venturing a little further out will bring you just rewards. The hot sulphur springs of Taptapani are 67 km away from Gopalpur, while Chilika Lake is at a distance of about 45 km. You can, of course, surf the high waves.

If that’s not your cup of tea, then go sailing or scout the shore for hidden creeks and lagoons, through the coconut groves and casuarina copses. And don’t dare miss the spectacular sunsets.

A leisurely holiday you won’t forget it in a hurry — that’s the secret of Gopalpur-on-Sea.